Thread: Poo Poo VE-T Idle Issues

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2009-12-09 23:11:45

#11

cortrim1

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Originally Posted by daveracer

I replaced the o2 sensor already. I didn't have to lengthen this one, because it's a 300zx sensor, and it has a longer wire than stock.

I would try another ecu. I have never had my consult adapter not be able to get the car in timing mode. I have been using nissan data scan for years.

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Mike
92 SE-R SR20VE-T 6262 Powered 535whp and 380lbft @22psi
http://www.cardomain.com/id/cortrim1
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2009-12-15 20:18:48

#12

daveracer

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Anyone else? I replaced the two wire CTS with an OEM Nissan one and it made no difference. I had it laying around, so i figured i would throw it in.

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2009-12-16 05:12:15

#13

HKS P10 GT Online/offline status of HKS P10 GT is unknown

Hksbluebird4u

Join Date: 2007-12-18
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.... ve idle issues.. ive encountered more then GOD.
1. air the the coolant system
2. water temp sensors are freaking out cause they are bad or loose connection
3.retard the timing could be too advanced
4. vaccuum leak so tiny itll piss you off when found
pics of the motor so i can see what the fuk is goin on

oh and the kicker the injectors..

besides the turbo that was another major factor you changed.. also could be FPR thats broken from within.

easy things you can actually check an test out

awwwwwwwwwwwwww this happend to me a month ago check it out
****ING CHARCOAL CANISTER VACCUM LINES WERE FUKIN DONE!

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HKS DANNY
1992 Nissan 300ZX TT
2002 Infiniti G20 sport

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2009-12-16 05:16:54

#14

HKS P10 GT Online/offline status of HKS P10 GT is unknown

Hksbluebird4u

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Where the fuk is the charcoal canister? did you remove it while puttin on turbo?

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HKS DANNY
1992 Nissan 300ZX TT
2002 Infiniti G20 sport

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2009-12-16 12:22:13

#15

daveracer

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Took it out. Not running any emissions equipment....

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2009-12-16 12:35:00

#16

Cliff

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Moved to the proper section since you seem to have issues with the turbo setup

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'17 Golf R

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2009-12-16 12:41:31

#17

Cliff

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Originally Posted by daveracer

So i'm pretty stumped by this. My P10 VE-T doesn't idle correctly. Let's rewind to when i had just put the VE in the car.

I install the VE engine into my P10, without the turbo. Car idled wonderfully. Rock solid at 900rpm's without fail.

At this point, i installed a Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors with a nismo FPR @ 4-bar, with a fuel pressure gauge and update the program on my Calum ECU. Idles and runs fine still.

So i install the turbo onto the car (JUST the turbo, manifold, lines, downpipe) and leave the charge piping off. I lengthened the o2 sensor. I start the car up, with the regular intake tube going to the maf and to a filter, like it was N/A. The car idles like junk. Fluctuating from 1000-2000 rpms, up down, up down. Pretty methodical actually. LOL.

So a few days later, i install the charge pipes and the rest of the turbo setup. Car idles the same, runs like a bat outta hell, but idles like crap.

So at this point, i figure i would install a 300zx o2 sensor, and get rid of the lengthened one. This made the car run a little smoother, but didn't help the idling issue.

So where did it go wrong? Fluctuating idle (worse when it's super cold out), chugging along between 1000-2000rpms, the on/off throttle is horrible. Car is very jerky.

I have checked, via my Calum ECU:

TPS voltage is good
MAF voltage is good
Temp sensor seems to be working fine....
Front o2 has got to be fine, since it's brand new

Throwing codes for:

Rear o2 sensor (not running a cat)
Crank Position Sensor (im running a b13 trans)

Any idea? It pretty much runs great, but this idling is getting to me. At some points when it's really cold out, it will idle at 3,000 rpms....then i'll shut the car off, wait 5 seconds, turn it back on and then it will fluctuate from 1000-2000rpms. It's got to be electrical...but where?

Oh yeah, the car won't go into idle adjustment mode via Conzult, and the idle screw does nothing (used to, doesn't anymore)

Sounds to me like an AAC/IACV issue. Seems to be happening frequently with turbo setups. Is your calum ECU a basic or RT? Could be that you need to play with your cold start idle values? When you warm the car up to operating temperatures, what happens? Does it continue to fluctuate?

Unplug the IACV/AAC and see if the idle still bounces around a lot. If it does, unplug the TPS and see if the idle stabilizes.

Sometimes you can't force the car into timing mode if the ECU is trying to hunt for a stable idle.

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'17 Golf R

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2009-12-16 13:27:29

#18

kevwal

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Do you have the tube to the AAC/IACV hooked up to the piping.

Make sure that the new O2 has the wires in the same pins. Sometimes they are different.

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92' SER -Pulsar/VVL combo on E85, 11.31 ET @134mph, Full weight, street car, A/C and sunroof, PTE 6262 at 19 psi (low boost) Now running Nismotronic SA
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2009-12-16 17:37:22

#19

myprojectb13 Online/offline status of myprojectb13 is unknown

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Try disconnecting the diverter valve vacuum line temporarily. It looks like where the valve dumps back into the intake pipe it's coming straight in. I remember people in the past having issues where some of the recirculated air is actually heading back upstream and confusing the MAF. A little angle towards the turbo may help.

I'd also try rotating the MAF. My Cobra MAF used to be finicky about its position.

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2009-12-16 21:55:58

#20

daveracer

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Originally Posted by TeKKiE

Yes is continues to fluctuate. Sometimes when it's really cold, it will idle at 3,000RPM's+! Then when it warms up, it will drop and fluctuate. So strange.

I will try those things. Thanks.

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