Thread: Help! GTi-R swapped b14! No Spark!

nice let me know mabe It will help shed light on my problem as well

Well I took the car to a mechanic since I had no time to play doctor. He had the car for five days and couldn't figure it out, even called someone else in to look at it. They claimed it was the computer and the distributor but I knew better. I got sick of not driving my baby so I grabbed a haynes manual and my digital multimeter and went over there and found the problem in 20 minutes. At the 5th pin located on the 6 pin connector on the distributor I was supposed to get 12 volts but only got 8. I jumped the connector straight to 12v and it started up. Yay! I still have to find out where I'm losing 4v from though when I get a chance I'll go play doctor again.

Well I took the car to a mechanic since I had no time to play doctor. He had the car for five days and couldn't figure it out, even called someone else in to look at it. They claimed it was the computer and the distributor but I knew better. I got sick of not driving my baby so I grabbed a haynes manual and my digital multimeter and went over there and found the problem in 20 minutes. At the 5th pin located on the 6 pin connector on the distributor I was supposed to get 12 volts but only got 8. I jumped the connector straight to 12v and it started up. Yay! I still have to find out where I'm losing 4v from though when I get a chance I'll go play doctor again.

mabe im haveing the same problem because when I changed the distributor on my car, it fired right up for the first times, then it started doing that not starting crap again, it starts just takes a few seconds

Make sure you have the right voltage at that 6 pin connector I believe the second and last pins (looking at connector with clip side up) are ground, and the fifth pin should have 12v. On the two pin connector you should have 12v off the black and red wire. Make sure the grounds are clean and intact properly. Do you even get any fuel or spark? And test the distributor and inside parts (grab a Haynes manual). I'll put up the info later or something if you can't grab one.

thanks that would be great!!!

Resistance between the two pin connector should be between .5 and 1 ohm. This is for the 95 or 96 SR20DE, let the engine idle backprobe terminals 3 and then 4 with a voltmeter set to AC volts scale. There should be about 2.7 volts AC at both terminals. This is for the OBDII SR20DE to check the power transistor, disconnect both connectors from the distributor and test the resistance between terminal 2 on the larger connector and terminal 8 on the coil connector. The reading should be more than zero ohms (I got like 9 ohms or something like that iirc). The chassis wire harness side of the ign coil conn. looks like this (7|8). The coil wiring connector a the distributor looks like this (8|7). The distributor side of the cps/cas electrical conn. looks like this (6|5|4|3|2|1) and the harness side would be (1|2|3|4|5|6) All these veiws are with the clip part of the connection whether it be harness side or sensor/distributor side facing up... I don't even know if this helps lol you could be OBD1 for all I know anyway it's up here for anyone who cares to know I hope this helps someone I couldn't find this anywhere on the forum but maybe I'm a dum dum lol.