Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
SR20 forum logo

Thread: What is going on with my turbo?

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-20 of 20
2008-01-02 06:55:23
wouldnt it just make sense to buy a new/used turbo rather than rebuild? the rebuild kit does not look like it includes new bearings; only new seals so i have no idea how this would help at all.
2008-01-02 07:09:15
i would say if the seals are blown smoke is more than likly going to be there...if the bearings are blown it doesnt HAVE to smoke, but it possibly could.

i second buying a new turbo than rebuilding it, esp if it isnt a expendsive turbo
2008-01-02 07:48:27
Originally Posted by sqd
wouldnt it just make sense to buy a new/used turbo rather than rebuild? the rebuild kit does not look like it includes new bearings; only new seals so i have no idea how this would help at all.

Not sure on other kits, but mine came with all new seals, rings, bearings, nuts, hell almost everything like I said. All for $91 shipped from a proven company. If I wanted I could have gone with a steel 360° thrust bearing like he's talking about doing for only a little more. If you know what your doing and the housing and wheel are not messed up it's really a deal, it was for me. $91 or $900ish... yea, not a hard choice. Plus I have the advantage of being able to clean the damn thing like new and what not. With a used turbo you run risks, IMO, and I have trust issues.
2008-01-02 08:05:50
did you have to rebalance it?
2008-01-02 08:21:22
If you disassemble the turbine, which means removing the CHRA, then yes, you should rebalance it. Since you'd be replacing bearings, that means removing the CHRA.

IIRC, a full rebuild from GPOPShop costs about $250 for a T-25 or T-28, and it comes back to you brand new. They install a new CHRA, etc. etc.

If you had to jiggle the chra to get it to move freely, chances are that the CHRA came into contact with the housing, and caused damage to either the housing, the CHRA, or both. Your best bet is to do the full rebuild, or buy another used turbine from someone. Personally, I would send it off for re-build, since it will come back to you looking and feeling brand spankin' new.

Sorry I didn't monitor this thread :o

As far as smoking, GT said it above, earlier. Your seals being shot will lead to burning oil. If your seals are good, your bearings can still be bad, and toast your turbine.

Sounds to me like bearing failure, and bits of bearing are lodging the CHRA which is eating it up.

Rebuild FTW.
2008-01-02 09:56:15
The wastegate rod fell of from the arm secured by a c-clip, go buy c-clips @ lowes hook it back up and woot woot!.
2008-01-02 16:35:37
Ok guys, my friends told me I was dumb for sending turbos in to rebuild so I finally got a kit for my old T3/T04E I had sitting around. This is a simple thing to do guys. If the fins didn't hit the housings at all and went totally nuts, usually a simple rebuild with hand tools can get you going in no time. I rebuilt my T3/T04 with a $80 kit and then sold it to a local guy bulding a car and it is still going after a couple years of daily driving. T25 kits can be found for as cheap as $60 if you look. Keep track of how things come apart and put them back together the same way.

2008-01-02 16:48:42
Just don't buy the eBay seal kit. Go through someone like ATP or whatnot.
2008-01-02 16:49:55
Oh, and I bought this kit (just for a T3):


2008-01-07 02:19:11
Whats really going on...
So, had a good weather day and the free time so I was able to take the turbo off the car. Found some interesting things:

1) We were all wrong. Not a thing was wrong with the turbo. What happened was the lock brackets on the turbo to exhaust manifold did not do their job. 3 of the for nuts had come off from the connection and the fourth was about to follow.

2) Some of the gasket got blown off and fell in the turbine housing.

As I've stated every time I posted about this, there is no shaft play at all still. Both wheels are in perfect order still (from what I can see, granted I can not see the inside of the turbine wheel, only the outside part). I took the oil outlet pipe to see into the CHRA and it has no build ups what so ever and everything looks good there as well.

Going to clean everything up tonight and put it all back on once I get new gaskets. Hopefully no seals were blown and all will be good.

Thank you everyone for the help!
BTW, TeKKiE, thank you for the help but you confused the hell out of me. CHRA stands for Center Hub Rotating Assembly, I was talking about the compressor wheel and turbine wheel, not the center housing. I think you just got the terms mixed up, but its cool.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)

    Back to top