Thread: n60 maf problems

so did you change the latencey? looks like from that forum that it's gonna .75

Check this out Eric. ECU Tuning Really, really good article on ecu tuning.

Car is running finally. The whole problem was based on my tune. Went through two dizzy's, wiring, headaches, the whole nine yards and the entire time it was the tune that was on my ecu. It's all worked out and the car runs great except for when it's cold it just wants to die suddenly.

so it was your tune i might need to check mine then i got a tune ecu from wnright and it idles the same way yours does and fouls my plugs

glad you got it worked out. i was gonna say on the other page that the VQ table on the right was the n62 maf table. I know it's been a while but I would deffinatly change your oil if you were running rich alot. also I thought 59psi is the max psi... at idle the vacuum (vacuum line hooked up) should pull the psi down a bit. 59 psi at idle would be making it run rich too.

Well, the moral of the story is, if you are going to upgrade...do it one thing at a time. Don't throw all these parts on there and expect your bin file to fix it all for you. I had an eccs relay that was bad giving me codes and intermittent spark. That was fixed and i had a bad cts, fixed that and found one of my problems from the very beginning with my maf pins.

car is quick, just need to get all the bugs out. Only codes i've got now are bank 1 sensor 2 which i'm guessing is rear o2...rule that out. Emissions bs, and egr bs. Which I knew anyways. Still having a problem with my maf wanting to come unplugged whenever it wants to, Guessing it vibrates loose from the pins and kills the car, I put it back on and it runs until it shakes loose again. Any ideas?

Also, when i downshift and give it hell, it hesitates BADLY, like the fuel's cut or something, mostly under boost. what's the deal with that? Am I blowing the spark out at 9psi?

On the maf connection u should put the clip thats goes around the connection that holds it in place

haha i do, the problem isn't the clip it's the female pins on the ends of the wires that push back into the connector when you slide it on. I can take my pocket knife and push them all the way down after the connector is on but they keep rattling loose. I put some jb weld around the wires to hold them in there on the back of the connector.

ok the maf's fixed, now my fuel pump isn't flowing enough, think it's got one of those junk ebay pumps in it. As soon as i hit boost the car falls on it's face, and other times it just dies and you can't hear the pump priming (after car is warm). Lots of problems with this car, glad i'm going through it and doing everything right...someone needed to.

The tune could be to rich and causing it to cut out.

i agree but even today i went out and she didn't want to run at all, it's kind of hit and miss, so i don't really think it's the tune. I could hear the fuel pump whining kind of up and down as the car idled up and down and then finally died. i swapped out the blower relay with the fuel pump relay the other day to make sure that the relay isn't the problem and it still did it...so it's got to be the pump. i'll find out in a couple weeks or so, bills are a pita.