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Thread: Thoughts on a full race motor setup (Turbo Posts)

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Posts: 131-140 of 148
2008-12-11 03:50:35
#131
around 500-575whp , it is fine if I make it on race gas , I want break 400whp on pump
2008-12-11 05:50:47
#132
I have not seen one of those O2 induction VE intake manifolds. Depending on how short the runners are, you may be better off with a stock intake manifold for your setup. You are better off with a doing port work on the cylinder head and using the stock intake manifold, than the shorter length manifold on a stock cylinder head.

If your goal is 500-550whp then you can use a GT30R but you must use the .82 housing. The turbo wont flow enough for more power than that. If you want more get a GT35R or atleast maybe a GT3082R ( 60mm turbine, 82mm comp wheel). Either way you should be running a .82 housing. If you get a GT35R you can get away with the .63 housing for low 500whp.

-Ted
2008-12-11 16:31:34
#133
Damn I need a flange... Mrslappy is my hero.

Nissan crazy why are you sleeving the block? The stock block can easily handle 500whp if it is kept stock bore. Guys around here are doing 700whp+ on their race setups with stock sleeves.
2008-12-11 19:49:40
#134
Originally Posted by Coheed
Guys around here are doing 700whp+ on their race setups with stock sleeves.

Excuse me but where are all these 700whp+ vvl guys? The only one I know is Mazworx.
2008-12-11 20:58:16
#135
Originally Posted by Coheed
Damn I need a flange... Mrslappy is my hero.

Nissan crazy why are you sleeving the block? The stock block can easily handle 500whp if it is kept stock bore. Guys around here are doing 700whp+ on their race setups with stock sleeves.


^Stock block can take 600WHP. I thought about sleeving my block, but for my power goals it would be no need to do so. 400-450WHP will do for me. Anything extra is a
2008-12-11 21:22:12
#136
I plan to go up to a 90mm bore and to have the head worked over , but it might have to wait till next year , I want to do somthing special ....and I thought what the hell why not, I might just keep it at 87mm for know and just get it together ...I will keep going forever at this pace
2008-12-12 01:56:11
#137
Originally Posted by bill
Excuse me but where are all these 700whp+ vvl guys? The only one I know is Mazworx.


These are DET guys around here. There is one guy around here with a really high HP VE in a 300zx or something but I have never seen it. Supposed to be really wicked.

The sr block is really strong and can make a lot of power. It just won't handle a ton of boost like a sleeved block can. I have heard of some people cracking sleeves in the block, but they were all running overbore. The real question is, how many people have actually cracked sleeves on their stock blocks?
2008-12-12 02:07:30
#138
I am curious with all these really high rpm motors making the power they are. I think it is great they are hitting 500whp, but does it actually act like a 500whp car? My car doesn't act like a 440whp car. More like 400 or so. As soon as I shift from 7500rpm to the next gear I am only making 380whp. What do you guys suggest for keeping the engine in the sweet spot? We are limited on trannys that will take the power, but it looks like my p11 tranny would hate high revs and would favor a more broad powerband over the peaky one I have now.

I have thought about revving higher, but without a standalone it wouldn't be worth it. I would rather stay around 8K or so. Though the thought of a high revving engine has crossed my mind, my engine was built for response and high boost. I want to hit the boost as fast as possible and make power as soon as possible. I have some time to think about it, so I will just have to see what happens when the stock VE cams go in and the manifold is changed. If I swap cams I will change springs as well so I can at least take her to 8K on the stock ones, or rev to the moon on some sr16ve cams.

Anyone happen to know the piston speed at 9K on the 2.0? It's gotta be at least 4500ft/min right?
2008-12-12 07:52:24
#139
Coheed, the piston speed of a 86mm stroke @ 9000rpm is 5079 FPM. RPMS and rev range is a controversial subject. Road racers will usually tell you to keep to 4500FPM average for really good stockish parts. if you have great aftermarket parts or awesome factory ones you can usually go to 5000-5200 FPM safely. I.E. the stock AP1 S2000 is a 84mm stroke which is about 4900FPM at 8900rpm ( factory redline) If you have great parts you can exceed that but its more than just good quality parts. R/S ratio, the weight of the parts, the tuning and so on all play HUGE roles in the longevity of the motor at high piston speeds.

Piston speed does make power on a motor with a high cylinder head air flow. but with piston speed comes wear issues in most cases. that VET setup that I posted going to 9500 RPMs regularly had a 10,000rpm limiter but has seen a high of 10,942 RPM (as recorded by the data logger) with a few runs on the dyno and on the street with a 10,750 rev limiter. It was set this high because of the second round tuning, peak power was made at 14psi of 522whp @ 10,200rpm and barely started to drop off after that, was still making over 500whp at the rev limiter. This engine was in a FWD car with a B15 LSD trans with some work done to it. With the gearing and that rev range, this car was very fast at very low boost, especially once you got up above 8,000rpm. If you shifted from 3rd to 4th at about 10,500rpm your rev's would drop back to about 7,500-8,000rpm or so. This engine was (is) so great because if you are in 3rd gear at say 5000rpm you are going about 65mph and you will have full boost around then, ( 300lb ft TQ) now you have a very flat TQ curve ( does not drop below 300lb ft till 9000ish rpm) so this motor will pull very hard and smooth till about 10,000rpm or so which is about 125mph. so you can drive from 65mph to 125mph in one gear ( 3rd) without having to shift. This means that if you raced say a STI, he would have to shift from 3rd, 4th and into 5th gear while you can just hold the same gear. Now ofcourse that means that if you can rev that high, that at 65mph you could drop down to 2nd gear (2nd tops out at about 85mph @ 10,500).

Now if you want a car that is very fast from the top of the rev range to the RPM drop back of the shift point, then you need something that is not that laggy and makes a lot of HP at that RPM point. Now if you look at this dyno sheet again, See how fast it builds Horsepower? It breaks 400whp just after 5000rpm! Now this is a DE motor, so if you do this with a VE head even with just stock sr20ve cams you should be able to make 525whp easy at 8000rpm and even more power sooner. with say a divided GT3076R. This motor is in a 2500lb street/drift S14. It is really really insane on the street. It has an OS Giken Gearset in it so in 5th gear at 4000rpm if you step on it, you think its going to take off. Its a rocket. This is more of an ideal "street" power band if you have the traction. This setup with a VE motor may make almost 400lbs TQ and only drop to say 340 by 8000rpm if setup right. That way you have a very very strong 4500-8000rpm powerband. you can even just run a Calum ECU with no rev limit and get an external like a MSD and rev to 8500 here and there.




-Ted
2008-12-12 16:20:10
#140
Ted's message reminds me of a fellow machinist/engine builder.

He was always talking about the mustang guys that came into his shop. He would tell them:

"i can build you a 500whp mustang for $5k, $8k or $10k, what do you want"

They would be baffled as to why a motor could cost 2x and make the same amount of power. The answer was always the quality of parts for the reliability at a given HP level.

I built my motor with a gtir crank, carrillo rods and a whole bunch of other things you don't need for a 200+ whp car. But I have some other big plans and an overbuilt buffer is just how i like it
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