Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Reinforcing a 32v Transmission case

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-20 of 29
2014-07-18 14:36:44
#11
More pics as requested...

2014-07-18 16:44:37
#12
Shouldn't this be in the driveline section? @BenFenner ?
2014-07-18 18:42:25
#13
Done.

Use the report function for faster results in the future.
2014-07-20 01:47:38
#14
Originally Posted by sss4me
Originally Posted by LAM-PARK
I have done this countless times.

It requires complete dis-assembly of the trans, removal of the bearing in the bell housing so that you can get the plastic oil director out. Then you can pre-heat the trans and tig weld in the aluminum insert. This is mainly needed to prevent the case from cracking due to wheel hop. Most cases are cracked from launching at the drag strip.

Have Fun!


now this bloke knows!! i rang a local engineering place i trust, and he said much the same thing. pull all the stuff out of/off it, heat it up, and weld away.machine flat. he's done a stack of v8 drag racing stuff. i'll post up my pic when its done.


Machining flat is not necessary - as long as it clears the rear engine mount bracket all is good. Personally, I'd rather see the nickels lined up.
2014-07-20 07:55:26
#15
Re: Reinforcing a 32v Transmission case
Originally Posted by Kyle
Shouldn't this be in the driveline section? @BenFenner ?


Originally Posted by kevwal
A more simple way is to weld a brace onto the motor mount/shifter bracket and bolt the other end to one of the 14mm bolts by the bottom of the oilpan. I used an old altenator bracket for this on my car. I been using this for over 10 years with no issues. I did weld a case before but I was breaking gears so much I had to find a easier way to do it since I would have spares ready to go in when I break them. I also was a little skeptical about the case becoming warped from all of the heat during the welding process.

To weld it you have to seperate the case, remove the seal and the bearing cup. Then clean out the gaps and fill them with weld. Back when I got mines done I didn't have a tig welder so I paid $150 to get it done.

My bracket was free.

Just another option.


You have a picture of said bracket?
2014-07-20 13:17:30
#16
Or u could fill the voids like lance did on his latest build
2014-07-20 13:23:05
#17
Originally Posted by TheSam
Originally Posted by Kyle
Shouldn't this be in the driveline section? @BenFenner ?


Originally Posted by kevwal
A more simple way is to weld a brace onto the motor mount/shifter bracket and bolt the other end to one of the 14mm bolts by the bottom of the oilpan. I used an old altenator bracket for this on my car. I been using this for over 10 years with no issues. I did weld a case before but I was breaking gears so much I had to find a easier way to do it since I would have spares ready to go in when I break them. I also was a little skeptical about the case becoming warped from all of the heat during the welding process.

To weld it you have to seperate the case, remove the seal and the bearing cup. Then clean out the gaps and fill them with weld. Back when I got mines done I didn't have a tig welder so I paid $150 to get it done.

My bracket was free.

Just another option.


You have a picture of said bracket?

Next time I have it on the lift I will snap a few. I haven't broken a case since I did this.
2014-07-20 13:29:26
#18
http://www.sr20-forum.com/members-rides/74156-back-game-my-resto-mod.html#post982866
2014-07-20 17:39:16
#19


Love that! Seems much more simple too!



2014-07-22 14:07:11
#20
I want to see pics of this trans bracket....... I have been welding the cases and running mt90 with good results but the cars with 350+hp still break parts after some time.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top