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Thread: Marsh Tuning and Morfius Performance

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Posts: 231-240 of 329
2015-10-09 17:51:44
#231
Originally Posted by Shawn
4. Radiator brackets removed, treated for rust, cleaned up, painted black.
Black is great. Go nuts. But if you were curious, the OEM units are a very dark olive green. (And cheap last time I checked.)
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-10-09 at 17-56-15.
2015-10-09 17:54:44
#232
Originally Posted by Shawn
5. Brass plumbing (Turbonetics) fittings. They are unanimously considered ugly, but we determined they are functionally OK, correct?
I see no functional issues (in the images) with any of the vacuum or intercooler plumbing that uses brass plumbing bits. Other than zip-ties not being reusable, the rest of the issues are cosmetic.

There is a common mistake with vacuum lines to check for. You will want to make sure the wastegate actuator is seeing boost only. Never vacuum. It needs to get a boost signal from before the throttle body. Not after. This means it can't share the same source as the BOV, FPS, or any other items that see boost and vacuum.
Details: http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/16477-basics-boost-control-wastegates-how-turn-up-boost.html#post763816
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-10-09 at 18-04-22.
2015-10-09 18:03:36
#233
I'm speechless that they thought it'd be acceptable to deliver the car with a used, crush bent downpipe.

C
2015-10-09 22:56:03
#234
Originally Posted by Chriscar
I'm speechless that they thought it'd be acceptable to deliver the car with a used, crush bent downpipe.

C


im surprised the car made it all the way home. and what a boring drive it must have been since you couldn't even boost it..what a clown this justin is.
2015-10-09 23:21:03
#235
Get a 1.6l line for your ac. It doesn't take much to get it to fit and it totally avoids the turbo area.
Last edited by daveracer on 2015-10-09 at 23-22-55.
2015-10-09 23:26:49
#236
Apearantly my comment was deleted from this post because it was offensive. Guess what it's a public forum I can have my say, just like shawn B does so unwantedly in so many other posts, that is my rights. If you ask me the whole thread should be deleted, it's all offensive. Shawn if you want your car built right us boston boys can build it for you right and for a Good Price. We take care of our people over here.
Last edited by Topdog781 on 2015-10-09 at 23-29-09.
2015-10-09 23:53:18
#237
Topdog, your post was deleted because it was completely counterproductive. Reason given to you at time of deletion: "Non constructive antagonistic post".
It was not because it was offensive.
We do try to keep these feedback threads on topic, on track, and devoid of useless bullshit like your deleted post.
Stay on topic please. Consider this your final warning.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-10-10 at 01-33-25.
2015-10-10 00:31:28
#238
Originally Posted by daveracer
Get a 1.6l line for your ac. It doesn't take much to get it to fit and it totally avoids the turbo area.

I would LOVE to do this. It would solve the issue in a most elegant and OEM correct way.

There is an early 1.6 line and a late 1.6 line. In order to figure out which one has the correct connections that will attach to a B13 compressor, I'd have to order a set of each. Wait for them to come in, then see if I can figure out which B13 compressor works with one or the other of the new lines. All of which is time, money, and a PITA.

If you know which 1.6 line goes to which B13 compressor, I'd be all over it.

This is the pic Serban sent me, but no further info except he *thought* it might include (re)machining the aluminum hose ends (!).


Sweetness. ^^^^^^^^
Last edited by Shawn B on 2015-10-10 at 00-36-25.
2015-10-10 02:40:38
#239
Originally Posted by Shawn


Sweetness. ^^^^^^^^



Man! Look at those sweet ass zip ties on that $250K build that took almost a yea...........wait

Shawn, if you can, remove that turbo induction pipe and check for rust on the interior of those welds. I would hate for a small piece of rust to flake off and damage one of the compressor wheels (it doesn't take much when the compressor blades/fins are spinning in the 120-130,000 RPM region!)

Also, I see a little yellow discoloration along the upper/lower oil pan. Is that from a coolant leak or something else??
2015-10-10 13:52:26
#240
I kinda don't like the continued bashing...the shit is on the road to being dealt with as I understand it. We all know it shouldn't have happened. We all see some quality problems. We all know this is a sucky situation for Shawn. It's one thing to point out a valid issue like a missing crank angle sensor but I don't see the point of comments that offer nothing more than negativity for the already crappy situation.
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