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Thread: Guide: Building Custom Koni Shorts (CSKs)

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Posts: 31-40 of 55
2015-07-25 07:10:08
#31
Originally Posted by 1fastser
The Konis do not have threads all the way down the top of the shaft like most other struts, this causes an issue with some ways that they get mounted such as using the stock top hats like I am on the rear or even the Ground Control plate up front. I needed to add washers to take up the space and get it to bolt down without being loose.I ended up using a 19mm on the nut and 9mm wrench on the top like you "should" do.


So is your solution to this in the last sentence? Corn-fused.


What I meant by loose was the fact the nut would get to the end of the threaded shaft and the shock would be loose in the top hat. I noticed it very quickly when I took the car for a drive and heard it make noise over a bump. The washers fixed the spacing.
The last sentence is referring back to this whole thing of me wanting to do things proper and use a torque wrench. But there is no way to keep the shaft from spinning while using a socket on a torque wrench so I had to just say "fuck it" and tightened it by hand with two wrenches and try to not break anything.
2015-07-25 12:27:48
#32
Originally Posted by Char
Originally Posted by 1fastser
The Konis do not have threads all the way down the top of the shaft like most other struts, this causes an issue with some ways that they get mounted such as using the stock top hats like I am on the rear or even the Ground Control plate up front. I needed to add washers to take up the space and get it to bolt down without being loose.I ended up using a 19mm on the nut and 9mm wrench on the top like you "should" do.


So is your solution to this in the last sentence? Corn-fused.


What I meant by loose was the fact the nut would get to the end of the threaded shaft and the shock would be loose in the top hat. I noticed it very quickly when I took the car for a drive and heard it make noise over a bump. The washers fixed the spacing.
The last sentence is referring back to this whole thing of me wanting to do things proper and use a torque wrench. But there is no way to keep the shaft from spinning while using a socket on a torque wrench so I had to just say "fuck it" and tightened it by hand with two wrenches and try to not break anything.


I'm also using oem top hats in the rear and GC plates up front and this is the issue I was going to attack today...clunking. I believe I noticed some slop in the camber Plate's spherical bearing and received 2 from GC yesterday. Now I'm wondering if washers are the solution.

Did u just match a washer up at Lowe's/Home Depot? Any more info on this?
2015-07-25 17:58:59
#33
Originally Posted by 1fastser
I'm also using oem top hats in the rear and GC plates up front and this is the issue I was going to attack today...clunking. I believe I noticed some slop in the camber Plate's spherical bearing and received 2 from GC yesterday. Now I'm wondering if washers are the solution.

Did u just match a washer up at Lowe's/Home Depot? Any more info on this?


I am sorry, I do not have the information on the specific washers I used as they were spares I had laying around. Measuring the top of my strut with a caliper gives me a little under 12.5mm or 1/2 inch, you don't want to go larger than that or else it will slip over the main shaft. The overall diameter doesn't matter as much though you are going to want thick washers. Again, sorry, I did not measure how much space you need to take up with washers but to be safe I would measure your Koni from the bottom of the threads to the top of the main shaft and get enough to take up that gap. Don't take into account the lock washer and top hat so you make sure you don't bottom out the nut as well as you can always remove a washer or two if it's too much.

With regards to the GC Plates... The idea is going to basically be the same. Put the plate on the Konis minus the spring and see how much space is left until it hits threads. The other issue to watch out for, as mentioned randomly in other threads regarding Koni+GC Plates is the top nut that centers the shock on the bearing. Ground Control uses bearings with a larger ID so it can be used in multiple applications then use a nut to center it, make sure your nut is the correct one before attempting to install, you'll need to get ahold of Ground Control for this.



What they look like on AGX KYBs which measure the same diameter as Koni, though I am not sure if they are the same at this moment.



The idea behind the bearing and nut.
Last edited by Char on 2015-07-25 at 18-22-03.
2015-07-26 04:25:01
#34
Vorshlag. Nice name drop.
2015-07-26 07:00:42
#35
Originally Posted by Kyle
Vorshlag. Nice name drop.


It's the best I could find in a quick google image search showing how the bearing on Ground Controls work.
2015-07-27 14:23:17
#36
McMaster-Carr

6659k17 should work with this set up. 6659k21 is what people use with the 8610-8611 set ups..

edit: this info is wrong, this is if your running tein camber plates.
Last edited by Keo on 2015-08-03 at 19-18-29.
2015-07-31 18:55:12
#37
Ok guys does someone has a guesstimate of how much $ on parts can this become a reality , how about longevity on a messed up streets and daily driving will they last?
2015-07-31 20:36:38
#38
depends on what set up you are looking into.
2015-08-03 18:45:03
#39
Originally Posted by ztunedsr20
Ok guys does someone has a guesstimate of how much $ on parts can this become a reality , how about longevity on a messed up streets and daily driving will they last?


It can range anywhere from $600 to $1500 depending on what you need or want to do or how you go about it. Not to mention it is kind of pointless to post exact prices as they are subject to change.
Longevity is also something that is going to be different from person to person but I'd say on average expect them to last as long as stock. The reason most people have issue with struts lasting is because they lower their car and the strut gets overworked.
2015-08-03 19:17:55
#40
1500+ if you go with the 8611-8610 race because of the housings you need.
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