Thread: Beam Suffering

Removed the Addco in the attempt to install the Whiteline bar. Turns out P11 rear beams are 10mm thicker then b15 ones, thus rear mounts wouldn't I started forcing the Addco bushings in, got that done but couldn't unbolt the beam mounts.

I left the car rear swaybarless and went for a drive, the car seems to oversteer a lot more, but not in a good away. The rear would break loose before the front thus it would kick out more. I couldn't really feel a different in body roll, but I was going a lot slower then I usually go on that S turn (usual is 50mph tops, this time around I stopped at 43mph). I'll try again tomorrow on the way home.

I'll try to get the whiteline installed tomorrow, very curious on how it handles in comparison.

Im really interested on the results you get, as i live in Costa Rica, im unable to bend my rear beam or get the panhard from 2JRacing. I will have to try to stiff the rear to make the car to have less understeer only using a sway bar... =(

I was able to take the car out on the S turn that I generally take quickly. This is a downhill S turn that is posted at 25mph, so fairly tightly wound (though on a map it doesn't look that bad at all :rofl.

Usually max I can do is 50mph by the apex of the second turn, with the swaybar off yesterday I did 40-43 and it felt alright. Well today I actually tried to take it fast, got to about 45-47 and I had to slow down, the body roll was so bad that it felt like the car was going to flip. Even my wife noticed how bad this one was and said not to do it again .

So in conclusion, no sway bar in the rear, made my turning at lower speeds a bit better and oversteers more, but as soon as you hit higher speeds the body roll is so bad I felt like the oem side skirts could touch the ground. Hopefully I can get the whiteline bar on tomorrow, getting the rear beam off is the painful part.

Disconnect one of the end links on the front bar and put the Whiteline on the rear. Then give it a whirl.


To save you aggravation while disconnecting the front bar, jack both sides up and pull both endlinks out of the CAs at the same time. Wire one endlink to the bar to keep it secure. Bolt the other side back on to the CA. If you do it this way, it's a snap to put back together if you don't like the setup. If it is to your liking, then you can remove the thing all together and save the weight.

Only problem with that is, I'm boosted. That swaybar keeps the control arm from bouncing around thus helps me with straight line acceleration. B15 swaybar is so much nicer for this too, much beefier mounts.

You've tried no front bar already?

No, just telling you that I can't perma run with front swaybar disconnected . I will say when I went from oem front swaybar bushings to ES ones the different was amazing. That's opposite of unbolting it, and it still made a nice difference.

I just want to say this... Just because it feels better doesn't mean it performs better.

FWIW I've raced in a nationally competitive CRX and on a long sweeper I could hear/feel the inside rear wheel lift up and come back down when I exited (watching the owner drive it I could see the wheel lift up 3-4" off the ground through the same sweeper). That car kicks a lot of well prep'd miata's asses all day long.

A beam bend makes a huge difference, as do poly bushes. I used to run a whiteline rear arb, but i haven't bothered with it since i installed the bushes. I do track the car, and i think my mods work really well.

good information in this thread!! question is where can you get the superpro rear bushings? i've tried Tein but they're taking forever to respond.