Thread: Whiteline Caster Bushings?

Got a set of the spf1340ak bushings from superpro. Got them through a local shop that shipped them to me the us mail. I wanna say they were $60ish but I can't find the receipt.

adrenalineracing.com

the spf1338k has 2 standard
the spf1339k has 1 offset & 1 standard passenger side bias
the spf1340k has 1 standard & 1 offset driver side bias
the spf1340ak has 2 offset

-chuck

how come the pictures on the global web site show the kca303 and kca303m are different bushings, not just different durometers? The holes on the kca303 are on the same sides and the kca303m are on opposite sides

$68 with shipping from AR.

Had a bit of an education today with a guy who really knew what he was doing taking the stockers off. Basically took off the control arm, stepped on it to hold it still, sprayed a bit of WD-40 on it, used a flat cold chisel and a large hammer on the metal insert ring to move it back enough to wedge a long open end wrench in, pry forward, insert second wrench, pry forward, insert 3rd wrench and pry forward, POP off it comes. Took him about 3 minutes to do them both. Took me 10 times that long to clean everything up ...filing and sanding the rough spots on the arm, and cleaning the dirt off the retainers and under the car.

I got mine about June 07 here. [url]www.185performance.com[/url] . Paid 50.45 plus shipping which was minimal.

Just got home from work, put them in after hours. I put the bushings in, aligned the car, and I had to remove my front sway because of my stupidity and me braking the endlinks with a 1/2 air tool.

On the way home, I noticed a little difference driving on the highway, the car turned very well, but seemed a little sluggish, which I am attributing to the removal of the front sway.

I was pleased with the feeling though, until I got to the offramp. I have the car setup so it will slightly begin to loose the back end when it is pushed too hard. I took the offramp at 50, and generally take it at 45. The car wanted to turn in more, but the back was completely balanced and I experienced no rear end push I usually got at 45. WOW. It is completely noticeable under the turns and just wants to keep pulling in harder. Not too much time with these but I LOVE what I got so far out of them. If anyone is on the fence, just do it, its worth it.

I had the car on a lift so I just took off the sway-bar, which included removal of the downpipe. Then I undid the insides of the lower control arms, and used an exhaust stand to hold the a-arm up against the car while I used a whiz wheel to grind down the bushing and cut a slit in the metal sleeve. Then Used a pry bar to loosen it and then twist it off with my hand. very straightforward. Took me 1hr and that was with some distractions and whatnot.

Dudeman

Guys,

I want to use these in a B13 circle track car. All we do is turn left. Which set would be best for this?

I'm thinking install the bias bushing in the left front and the standard one in the right front [so the car wants to turn left]?

Mike

Hi Guys. I just got a set of the KCA303M. I was reading the install instructions and they want me to lightly tighten the control arm fasteners and then do a full torque to spec with the car at the ride height it sits a on the ground. Did anybody bother to do this? This presents a problem as I really don't have a way to get underneath the car and have it at the ride height it sits at on the street with all the weight of the car on the suspension.

I didnt. I just installed them with the car up. With stock you have to do it as above with the castor bushing you shoundnt as they dont bind up like the stock do. Ive had no problems

I assume the same part #'s would apply to a B14? If I'm not mistaken,the Nissan part # for the control arms are the same as a B13.Anyone want to shed a little light on the subject?


Never mind.Answered my own question.