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Thread: Whiteline bar installed today

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Posts: 81-90 of 110
2013-05-04 04:26:25
#81
what setting do you guys have the bar on? I'm on the medium setting and think I can go to strongest. I can't really get the car to oversteer.

Originally Posted by ivanorcan
I have a update, yesterday i was able to push my car on a couple of corners in the highway at "high speed", no these corners i normally was able to go up to 100km/h pushing the car... and yesterday i tried it, and at 100km/h the car was super stable, so i continued that way and then i noticed that i was going at 120km/h and the car was still really stable and without heavy body roll... im so happy to have this swaybar installed really really worth it!!


Great to hear Ivan! I'm loving the bar as well!
Last edited by gomba on 2013-05-04 at 04-27-55.
2013-05-05 00:56:42
#82
Originally Posted by gomba
what setting do you guys have the bar on? I'm on the medium setting and think I can go to strongest. I can't really get the car to oversteer.

Originally Posted by ivanorcan
I have a update, yesterday i was able to push my car on a couple of corners in the highway at "high speed", no these corners i normally was able to go up to 100km/h pushing the car... and yesterday i tried it, and at 100km/h the car was super stable, so i continued that way and then i noticed that i was going at 120km/h and the car was still really stable and without heavy body roll... im so happy to have this swaybar installed really really worth it!!


Great to hear Ivan! I'm loving the bar as well!



For me it's on the stiffest setting (see third pic on my orginal post). I'm also about to put 330lb springs on the back and see what happens. After the beam gets bent, i may need to back the bar off a hole or two or hook back up the front bar. We shall see.
2013-05-06 13:25:59
#83
Im using the stiffest setting, still the car have understeer, but it feels way better than before. I got more oversteer but still not neutral. Im thinking on getting the progress adjustable front sway bar to be able to put that one on the softest setup and play a little with that.

Im using road magnet springs that are 325lb on front and 290lb on the rear. I want to install the QT adjustable link for the rear. Hopefully that will help with the stability...

Cheers!
2013-05-06 13:40:03
#84
Make sure you research if the softest setting on the progress front bar is softer than stock before trying that. I don't think it is...
2013-05-06 14:13:16
#85
n/m
Last edited by gomba on 2013-05-06 at 14-16-16.
2013-05-06 15:07:55
#86
Originally Posted by ivanorcan
Im using the stiffest setting, still the car have understeer, but it feels way better than before. I got more oversteer but still not neutral. Im thinking on getting the progress adjustable front sway bar to be able to put that one on the softest setup and play a little with that.

Im using road magnet springs that are 325lb on front and 290lb on the rear. I want to install the QT adjustable link for the rear. Hopefully that will help with the stability...

Cheers!


For what you're trying to acheive, I'd just bit the bullet and put in a panhard bar and trash the lateral link/control rod setup altogther.

I personally think the QT link is snake oil. As long as the 2 rubber bushings remain on the far ends of the lateral link, it's really not addressing much of anything. The claim that it addresses geometry issues when one lowers the rear is hogwash, as well. All it's going to do is induce bind if the bushings are of a high durometer than stock. I'm guessing the people that claim "an improvement" are feeling the bind and think it's a tighter rear end. Show me time improvements on a road course and then I'll subscribe.
2013-06-16 17:14:18
#87
Took my car to the track this past week. I had the rear sway bar on the medium setting and even with ES trailing arm bushings and my sway bar the car never felt like it was ever going to oversteer on me. It did help get rid of a bunch of understeer, but there's more to be had on the strongest setting I think. With that said, I'm moving the sway bar up to the strongest setting for now on and leaving it there. I'd suggest other b14 owners to do the same.

-G
Last edited by gomba on 2013-06-16 at 17-32-33.
2013-06-16 18:41:12
#88
if you guys are trying to get more oversteer/less understeer, you really need to get the whiteline caster bushings for the front control arms
2013-06-17 05:38:00
#89
Originally Posted by hammerin
Originally Posted by ivanorcan
Im using the stiffest setting, still the car have understeer, but it feels way better than before. I got more oversteer but still not neutral. Im thinking on getting the progress adjustable front sway bar to be able to put that one on the softest setup and play a little with that.

Im using road magnet springs that are 325lb on front and 290lb on the rear. I want to install the QT adjustable link for the rear. Hopefully that will help with the stability...

Cheers!


For what you're trying to acheive, I'd just bit the bullet and put in a panhard bar and trash the lateral link/control rod setup altogther.

I personally think the QT link is snake oil. As long as the 2 rubber bushings remain on the far ends of the lateral link, it's really not addressing much of anything. The claim that it addresses geometry issues when one lowers the rear is hogwash, as well. All it's going to do is induce bind if the bushings are of a high durometer than stock. I'm guessing the people that claim "an improvement" are feeling the bind and think it's a tighter rear end. Show me time improvements on a road course and then I'll subscribe.


I'm partial to the QT link myself, but I do think it does fix the beam shift issue. One of these days when you are bored walk out to your car and measure the rim to fender distance on each side and compare. My B15 which is about 1.5" lower then stock has the beam shifted to one side by about 6mm. That's just recipe for dog tracking. The QT link does let you put it back to center, weather or not that's the proper way to put it back to center, I don't know...

Also this can be seen with Thrust angle degrees on an alignment rack. To top it off due to the beam being shifted to one side, alignment rack thinks that one side has more toe in then other side.

I want the QT link, but I want it in delrin flavor. This is the only reason I haven't bought it. I might just make one out of heim joints....

Now you guys mentioned that Joe was able to get your thrust angle back to 0, I'm actually really curious on how, that's some awesome black magic I tell ya!
Last edited by Vadim on 2013-06-17 at 05-47-00.
2013-06-17 06:18:23
#90
Apparently there is a way to recenter the beam by loosing all of the bolts. Maxima has the steps in the FSM apparently, which I couldn't find in B15 Sentra FSM though.

Post
Originally Posted by absoundlab
You have to re-center the rear beam. Basically due to the linkage on the rear beam, our solid axle pivots upwards and to the right side under compression.

Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways

What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around

you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either


Keep in mind this will only work minor lowering of the car. I'm willing to try it to see if it helps though.
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