Thread: A good road racing brake setup?

+1^ except be careful of rear bias. For ex, my stock rear pads wear quickly but heat up faster than Hawk HPS or HP+, so until you've done some lap time take it easy on the brakes. My rears are Max/1st gen U13 calipers, too. Don't waste money on expensive pads for the rear until you've tried basic pads. I find its plenty.

I have Brembo GT's on my other car; the Wilwood Fastbrakes are phenomenal for the $$$. Little more flex, but they work great and pedal feel is great. Cannot beat them for the money for track use. Overkill for most other use, but they're great there, and I don't see how Brembo 4-pots would be any better on my car, other than the bling

Keep the NX front calipers. Find yourself an NX Master CYlinder. Brembo blanks not really needed. Sure Brembo might be higher quality. But realistically rotors are gonna get worn down. That is their function.

You can just get some low budget ones from autozone. Get some High Temp brake fluid. Brake pads from a first gen Eclipse GST will work in the ad22's. So that will give you some more options.

The NX set up is plenty for a track car. I have a couple of track days with the Carbotech Panther Plus compound and the car would drop an anchor. It was pretty damn cool. This year I finally put a proper NX2k master cylinder on my setup so I"m looking forward to not locking the fronts as easy as before. My last upgrade to my setup will be an altima master cylinder with the NX2k proportioning valves. I just want the 15/16" Master Cylinder so that I have less pedal travel. Hopefully this will allow me to finally heel and toe without having the brake pedal go lower then the gas pedal.

If your dust shields are still somewhat intact take them off to get better cooling to the rotors. Also making some brake ducts would help keep temps down as well. I say once you get the max out of the NX2k brake setup then it would be a good idea to go better. By max I mean threshold braking on a consistent and predictable basis.

Try measuring your braking distance with abs and without. Threshold isn't always that easy to do lap after lap. I honestly haven't mastered it yet. If the car is doing it for you , it might just equal lower braking distances.

My Setup is:
AD22VF Calipers + Cheap Ass Discount Rotors (DustShield Completely Removed)
NX2k NON Abs Master Cylinder
Stock Rear Calipers and Rotors
Autozone Rear Pads
ATE SUper Blue Brake Fluid
Crown SS Lines from GReg V

The lines are excellent, made all the difference. Only issue I have with Autozone cheap rotors is like any rotor, they're going to get very, very hot which is probably the only time you're likely to find out why they cost less - higher potential for warp. The Brembo rotors were just a suggestion because they're not that much and readily available, and the point mentioning those blanks was not to waste on slotted/drilled rotors.

Pads, lines, fluid will make more impact w/re feel and fade issues as will the larger MC, too. Can't say enough good things about the lines from Greg in terms of pedal feel (plus having already blown a rear older SS line, not from Greg, it sucks to lose a brake line, his will outlive me).

Just curious, if you don't mind what's the ballpark cost for the above conversion?

The AD22's are plenty of brake, and plenty durable set up like yours, too. Nice thing about our cars is we have a lot of options