Thread: A good road racing brake setup?

order your lines from classictube and bend them yourself. that's what i'm doin on the racecar. costs like 60 bucks to do.

NX all around with carbon mettalic pads will work great on a b13.

I would not use maxima rears and an altima MC with NX fronts. Too much rear bias.

I can't afford the maxima upgrade anyways. Now I just need to know how to convert from ABS to non-ABS.

Yes. Then you can rip out the ABS computer as well. If you don't want to install new lines mazdatrix sells an abs delete kit for the rx7 that has a m10x1mm tee that you can use to bypass the abs pump. You can buy the tee seperate.

edit: Any Nissan dealer should be able to get you the part numbers, I know the brake lines are surprisingly cheap and were still in production ~1 year ago.

my setup seems absolutly perfect on the track.
AD22VF front calipers with brembo blank rotors and hawk blue pads.
stock rear with just any pads you want.
stock se-r master cyl.
stainless lines are a feel thing not a performance thing. i dont use them so i may have to push my brakes an extra mm to get the same force.
ATE super blue or equivelent fluid(this is the big thing for the track)

Thanks, I just need the parts to convert to non-ABS and I'll be good to go.

this is close to the factory setup for overseas NXen.
The only difference I could see would be the master cylinder and that piece on the firewall that sets the brake bias.

I'm running 4-pot Wilwoods w/Hawk HPS, with the Nabco 97 Nissan U13 Non-ABS MC, Max/Alty U13 rears with OEM pads, basic rotors, and I barely (and I mean by the skin of my butt) avoid too much rear bias.

The brakes work great (also forgot to add Greg's Gspec lines, great stuff), but I will add a F/R Proportioning Valve eventually. Guessing the Wilwoods with 11" rotors bite more than the NX2000 brakes they replaced.

At track speeds and temps, this goes away as the fronts warm up and the rears tend to fade. When they're cold, like AutoX runs, there is rear-bias which can be useful for late braking and initiating some tail-out on sharper corners.

At least on the B13 the PV function is built into the MC, you have to add another PV to control F/R bias.

(pics pre-line changes) -

Good setup.

This would be cool so long as you don't have a bigger MC, that's a great setup that doesn't brake the bank. Problem with front 4-pots is the added fluid requirements mean larger MC, and w/o a PV to adjust F/R bias, you can end up locking the rears under hard braking and squaring the tires (just as Coleman did with my car when he did the last SCC shootout).

I look at the SS lines as a safety and durability thing, not just for feel, on the track I don't want some piece of rubber blowing out on me and dumping brake fluid on the course. You buy one set, that's it, you're done for a long time. Maybe with stock MC you would not have the issue, but once you start putting more pressure on those stock OEM lines, it's a safety deal IMHO.