Thread: Csk builders

^^ No no Wes.

I am saying replace the stock dampers with koni yellow "inserts" in the stock (or other) housing and go along your merry way

Sorry folks if my post is a little confusing (thanks for pointing this out Wes) :o

I see. What do you mean by non-shortened then? All of the inserts that fit in stock housings require that you cut the housing to bottom the shorter damper.

This is a great thread full of information but even with my experience in building these setups I am getting confused in places.

The reality is that a Spec V or Maxima damper is all about 95% of the people will ever need, and while there are better options you are well in to the law of diminishing returns.

For example my B14 with this setup and mild springs was plenty fast around the track.Even with what I would consider intermediate driving ability.

I also think that you can build an awesome setup using stock housings. I documented my suspension build on MotoIQ so people could see at least one way to do it. There are other ways both more or less advanced but you can easily replicate what we did with a modest budget.

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/1563/project-200sx-overhauling-the-suspension.aspx

I agree

Hmmmm, I see Wes.

Ok, let me fully clear up the confusion as much as I can then

Yes, all installs the cutting of a few inches off the top of the housing to bottom out the inserts. But, you can still install the inserts and still use the stock perches and use stock springs, no problem


All the information gathered can be seen in the links below

1) Building a B13 for FSP (look to the bottom of the posting as it explains how this gentleman did his housings)
Building an update/backdate Frankenstein Street Prepared car|Straightpipe Magazine

2) This is a step by step write up from the B15 forums on how they do thiers (should be the same concept for B13 with the exception of it being 4 and not 2 struts which are being modified)
Koni Yellow Insert Writeup (with pics) - B15sentra.net - Nissan Sentra Forum

3) This is directly from Koni and it gives a blow by blow on how Koni intends for thier inserts to be installed
http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf

I hope this clears up most (if not ALL) of the confusions!! I am sorry as I made certain assumptions as to what people do and do not know, so my apologies!!

And truth be told, this can be done by ANY average enthusiast!! It just seems that people like to make things much more complicated than they really are, do not want to ante up the $$$ or just simply too damn lazy. All you have to do is
a) Have SOME common sense
b) A few tools
c) Some time
d) A little patience

I have personally not gone this route because I simply would prefer new housings, and just simply cannot be bothered as I prefer to spend my time driving as compared to wrenching, simple (aka, I can be lazy at times LOL). And again, for the price of upgraded housings, the performance vs $$$ is simply negligible..........

Shawn, is there anyway to compile all the information in this thread into a sticky?? Just a request for the masses and if you are not able to, I more than understand!! Thanks

About non-shortening them:

Normally, you just drill a hole in the bottom of the shock that's just big enough for the bottom bolt from the KONI insert to go through. This is considered the "non-shortened" way.

You can also make the hole in the bottom of the shock bigger, diameter-wise, to be able to put the "nub" on the bottom of the KONI insert all the way through. This will give you about an inch (I think) of height-loss. You need to either cut down the nub (and bolt), or use some big rings (or bicycle washers, or something like that) on the bottom of the strut.

I have no abilities to make a thread into a Sticky.

However, I have complete and total ability to make damn sure this thread is prominently included in the "stickied" Suspension Thread.

I am glad that folks like you and Wes and Veilside are contributing to the knowledge. I was honestly afraid that we were losing the CSK knowledge and expertise on the forum(s). Wishing we had a "go to" source to purchase properly built and engineered CSK's for folks like you (admittedly lazy, LOL) or me being both lazy and mechanically inept.

I hope that Rich (veilside180sx) will be that source for our forum. Whatever his pricing is, it is. Step up and pay it or don't. Deal with his his scheduled timeframe, or suck eggs. Which is exactly how Steve used to do it. No arguements, no discussion, no bargaining and no whining.

I personally have absolutely no issues with paying for expertise. I prefer it.

Mojo, that is what I thought as well and I just needed some confirmation of this (when doing the MR2 this is basically what we did........hole in the bottom of the housing)..........Good!!

anyone have any thoughts on this? I did some physics models of the b13 suspension with Hyperco Gen 2s and found that critical rebound damping is around 975F/610R nm @ 13" /s.

The b15 koni yellow sports have the following specs:

min rebound: 1050 newton meters @ 13" per second
max rebound 2100 newton meters @ 13" per second
compression: 450 newton meters @ 13" per second

If you drill the hole in the bottom the Nub should protrude through anyway. Why would one do it without the nub protruding through when on the B13/14 chassis benefits from the increased travel?

I simply think the best way to do these has already been covered in previous builds that have been documented on the forum and for the ease of simplifying things for those looking for simple solutions it is probably best to refer to those builds before they consider other methods.

Steve's thread's and builds.
Veilside's builds.
The MotoIQ build all provide good examples of different ways to use the inserts.

Agreed. Its been covered a lot. The more you read the better Rich's prices look.