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Thread: Camber plate/FSTB questions

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Posts: 1-9 of 9
2010-11-02 01:41:59
#1
Camber plate/FSTB questions
I am looking for input on Front camber plates for a B13 with RM/AGX.
I have 2 different Cusco FSTB that I want to use with camber plats.
1-From what I have searched,the Cusco camber plates would work,but raise the front of the car,like.5 inch
2-Also GC topmount or other topmount will increase travel,which would be great,but then you can't mount a conventional FSTB

Are these things correct,or am I missing something??
Obviously I want to use wht I have rather than start over.
Pics would be awesome !!
2010-11-02 03:05:26
#2
I always thought GC plates were for small diameter springs only. What would you be using for spring mounts?
2010-11-02 03:25:42
#3
I guess what I am after right now is a pillowball mount with camber adjustment that can be used with a conventional spring,and a cusco FSTB bar.
2010-11-10 01:30:06
#4
Bump.
2010-11-10 02:04:23
#5
Tein or Cusco, i have had the Cuscos and would not recommend them at all, i am sure the teins are the same. You will need a spring perch no matter which route you go. You might have to use an under mounted camber plate if you want them.

Just a question, why the need for a camber plate? With the drop of the RM springs you should have abou 1-1.5* of negative camber or less, which to me is ideal.
2010-11-11 03:16:57
#6
Originally Posted by squirlz
Tein or Cusco, i have had the Cuscos and would not recommend them at all, i am sure the teins are the same. You will need a spring perch no matter which route you go. You might have to use an under mounted camber plate if you want them.

Just a question, why the need for a camber plate? With the drop of the RM springs you should have abou 1-1.5* of negative camber or less, which to me is ideal.


This is a daily driver that gets alot of miles,so a perfect alignment or as close as possible is the ultimate goal.Its slightly different from one side to the other.Its a daily driver and drives straight and true after the alignment.I cannot see any frame damage ,and the car has never been in an accident.
This particular alignment shop has wallowed the holes very slightly for me on other B13 cars I have had before... just enough to give it a tiny adjustment,but not sacrifice strength.I feel that it is better than "crashbolts" for camber. Works great,except if you swap an axle or tranny,you have some play there that will change the alignment(most likely) after you put the struts back in position,and assembled.
I would like to be able to take as much of hat stuff apart as possible without changing the alignment every time.I was hoping to get some camber plates to get it dialed in dead on whatever settings are made at the alignment shop.

On my DD,I will gladly sacrifice some handling characteristics,to gain better tire wear and possibly even a MPG or 2.
2010-11-11 11:55:21
#7
Understandable, i would try the Teins over the Cusco ones. Cheaper too. It might end up raising the car though, but you could figure something out for the top mounts to help remedy that.
2010-11-29 18:58:42
#8
Toe kills tires..... As long as you have zero toe I am confident if you got the negative camber to less than 1.25 degrees tire wear from this will be insignificant. I daily drive my 200 for 3 years with 1.5 degrees of camber and zero toe and had zero inside tire wear....
2010-11-30 07:03:25
#9
Wes doesn't wheel size also come into play? Like if someone has 16 or 17 inch wheels wouldn't camber have to be less and less, the larger the wheel gets and the lower the tire profile gets?
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