Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: just some quick advice on lowering...

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-18 of 18
2010-07-25 18:25:17
#11
here is a pic of what I did...

2010-07-25 18:27:19
#12
Yep, if you buy the "long" ones you'll want to cut off some like above. You can also buy "short" ones that don't need any cutting.

That's the only weird thing you have to worry about.
2010-07-25 20:32:46
#13
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Yep, if you buy the "long" ones you'll want to cut off some like above. You can also buy "short" ones that don't need any cutting.

That's the only weird thing you have to worry about.


Actually the reason I did this was because I wanted a linear feel.. And was not offered in a 45MM
2010-07-28 12:14:09
#14
oh ok, does anyone have a link to where i can purchase the bump stops?
2010-07-28 13:01:24
#15
You want the 40mm ones and that's Koni part# 7034540000 (from the suspension sticky thread).
They used to be available from The Go Fast Depot (from the suspension sticky thread) so let me check if the shop that bought them out have them available.

Edit: Yep here they are the exact ones you need: http://shop.888murrays.com/product.php?productid=1574100277&cat=0&page=1
2010-07-28 14:14:21
#16
^thanks...also just curious as to whats the widest tire i can use on my car and tire profile with the road magnet drop
2010-07-28 14:21:06
#17
That's completely dependent on your wheel size and offset, and if you're willing to roll the rear fenders or not.
2010-07-28 14:29:15
#18
I initially ignored this thread. On purpose.

Biting my tongue so hard it bled.

Originally Posted by commandercool
ok so i'm going to lower my 4-door b13 and i already have road magnet springs and kyb agx struts along with new dust boots...now


do i need new bumpstops also?

i read the suspension thread but i wasn't too sure if i needed em or not


http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/1801-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html
Originally Posted by The

Bump Stops

(Application: B13, B14, B15)

These handy little items should not be overlooked as unimportant when you are modifying your suspension. As your suspension hits full compression, these little "cushions" can help absorb the shock and avoid damaging your struts.

Koni - Absolutely excellent choice. Recommended by Sport Compact Car, see article posted above. Ballpark price: $80.00.

Available at forum vendor The Go Fast Depot:
Koni Bump Stops - SR20 Forum

Isfahan providing another excellent picture of an OEM vs. Koni bumpstop:

Koni on the right.

Why are the Koni's the best bumpstops you can buy? This thread, courtesy of bobbyisking, has Steve (98sr20ve) and Mike Kojima (Choaderboy2) discussing the issue:
energy suspension vs koni bump stops? - SR20 Forum
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
In your shortravel setups a bumpstop becomes a extension of the primary spring. You will hit it. Difference becomes how progressive/hard the transition is from the main spring to the bumpstop. Koni are softer and ramp up to the end of travel in a smoother fashion.

Originally Posted by Choaderboy2
Koni foamies are the best.


Which Koni bumpstop do I buy? Thank you LBCStudios:
quick koni bumpstop ? - SR20 Forum

Cutting Koni bumpstops to gain more travel. Thank you Sentrixx, much appreciated.
nissanperformancemag.com
Photo from link, Nissan Performance Magazine:


Nissan OEM - You get new ones automatically when you buy strut boots. (See dust boots.) You cannot buy them seperately.

Can you explain to me what exactly you did not understand?

You read this information correct?

How in the world are you "not too sure" if you need freakin' bumpstops sir?!?

Originally Posted by commandercool
oh ok, does anyone have a link to where i can purchase the bump stops?

Do we really need to spoon-feed you?
Originally Posted by BenFenner
You want the 40mm ones and that's Koni part# 7034540000 (from the suspension sticky thread).
They used to be available from The Go Fast Depot (from the suspension sticky thread) so let me check if the shop that bought them out have them available.

Edit: Yep here they are the exact ones you need: Go Fast Depot*::*Go Fast Depot*::*Koni Bump Stops*::*High Performance Auto Parts

Is Bens answer clear enough for you? Did you even notice the source of his information?!?

Originally Posted by commandercool
^thanks...also just curious as to whats the widest tire i can use on my car and tire profile with the road magnet drop

Seriously?!?

Originally Posted by The
What size wheels should I buy? Your best performance bet is 15" lightweight wheels. 4 X 100 pattern, you have a bazillion choices for the B13 chassis. Tires are less expensive for the 15" wheel size.

16" rims may look cool, but tire selection is extremely limited.

17" (+) wheels suck for performance, it is more unsprung weight. More expensive tires. If you go bigger than 17" rims on a B13? Prepare to be flamed for being a total Uncle Ben's Ricer.

From this link: sentra.net
NOTE: Understand that some information contained in that link is...dated. This article was written by Mike before Hyperco, let alone Road Magnet springs. You have to view some of the information, specifically on commercially available springs (H&R, Eibach, etc.) and products (NuTech is out of business, etc.), in that article with a historical perspective. However, all of the rest of the info is dead accurate today, still very relevant, and it's brilliant. Like this for instance:
Originally Posted by Mike
Don’t over tire or wheel your car. Our cars will go the fastest and handle best with the widest, lightest 15 inch wheel that will fit. 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels which look radical, really slow the car down because they are heavy and the bigger diameter screws up the gear ratio.... The widest tire that you should run unless you have a turbo or some other ungodly power is a 205. Wider tires will result in more drag than our relatively low power engines can accelerate. A 205/50-15 works well in most cases and a wide variety of R compound tires are available in this size. The maximum rim width that the B14/B15 can run is 7.5 inches with a 35-40 mm offset. A Classic B13 can run a 7-inch rim with a 30-35 mm offset as there is less wheel clearance in the rear of a B13. Since this always comes up, the bolt circle measurement on our wheels is 4x100 mm. The competition wheel that impresses me the most is the Volk TE37. This wheel is forged so it can be much thinner than a cast type wheel. It weighs a feathery 9 lbs which is twice as light as a regular wheel. The other good light wheel is the Enkei RPO-1 it weighs about 13 lbs which is still very light. Remember that 1 lb on the wheel is worth about 10 on the car due to the wheels rotational Inertia. We took 0.4 seconds off of Mike Saiki’s ΒΌ mile time just by going from 16 inch Axis wheels to 15 inch TE37’s. The difference is all in the wheel weight and tire diameter.

Originally Posted by Sport
MYTH #9: BIG WHEELS MEAN BIG PERFORMANCE

The Truth: Remember when you first moved up from a BMX bike to full-size mountain bike? Remember how hard it was to pedal? Gear ratio aside, it takes a lot more work to accelerate a larger diameter wheel because of the added rotational inertia. Rotational inertia (how difficult an object is to start or stop spinning) is affected by mass and radius. In the case of a wheel, the radius has an exponentially larger effect on rotational inertia than wieght alone. For example, the one inch difference in diameter between a 17- and 18-inch wheel has the same effect on the wheel's rotational inertia as increasing its weight by 10 percent at the outer radius. The effect is even greater going from an 18- to a 19-inch wheel.

Bigger wheels also weigh more. Although unsprung weight (any vehicle weight not held up by the suspension) isn't such a significant factor on the street, at the track, taking as much weight as possible off each corner will have a huge impact on lap times. The math reveals that every pound of unsprung weight is equivalent to adding 1.4 or more pounds to the chassis (sprung weight). As with rotational inertia, this effect is amplified as the wheel diameter increases.

The Fix: We don't like anything larger than 18 inches in diameter. For most smaller sport compacts, 17-inch wheels are more than enough. Look for the lightest, widest wheels that clear your suspension and fenders. If price is a limitation, sacrifice weight before width. A wide wheel means more tire and grip, but also more mass at the outer radius and therefore more roatational inertia. There is always a tradeoff. (Author James Chen).

Originally Posted by Sport
The 16X7-inch Black Racing N1 wheels we installed last century (1997) were reasonably light for cast wheels at 15 pounds each, but years of abuse had turned them square. It was time for a change.

Visually, 16's are the right size for an SE-R, but the selection of 16-inch tires is pathetic. 17's look like dubs on a B13, so we went down to the land of lightweight and abundant race rubber. The land of 15's.

Every good tire is available in 205/50/15, and 15X6.5 and 15X7-inch wheels are abundant in the bolt pattern (4X100mm) and offset (+35mm) the SE-R requires. (Author Dave Coleman)

Check this thread for wheel weights:
wheel weights - 3000+ brands - SR20 Forum It links you to a web-site that lists wheel weights for 3,000+ rims.

Conversion Tables for Rims and Tires
You want to +1 your rim size and keep your speedometer as accurate as possible? Thank you Canx2k for this excellent thread:
Conversion table for bigger rims/tires - SR20 Forum

Where should I buy tires? Well, you should always check Tire Rack. They offer great service, support, pricing, and an uber-cool web-site: Tires Their web-site allows you to view different rims on your vehicle. Their tire buying process has tons of information and reviews on tires.

How old are my tires, even when new? Yes, tires have a have a shelf-life.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/offtopic/12314-you-buying-new-tires.html
Thanks to forum member 97 SR20 for that information. And for sr20jet for the Reader's Digest version:
Originally Posted by sr20jet
Look at the series of DOT numbers on the tire. Look at the last set of numbers, this will indicate when the tires were produced. In my case, 2208 meaning tires were made on the 22nd week of 2008. If it's 3 digits, the last digit goes back to the 1990's, ex. 077 tires made on 7th week of 1997.

Further, according to an ABC News report in the thread link, tires can start to deteriorate at the four (4) year mark, and become dangerous at the six (6) year mark. However, tires have no "expiration date" at the tire dealers. Make sure you are buying relatively new tires and not a tire that has been sitting on a shelf somewhere for five (5) years.

Stock OEM wheel information for the B13 and B14. What is the size, offset, bolt pattern, center bore, weight, and how does changing my rims change my speedometer accuracy?
Tire Wheel Sizes
Gracias to forum member jrmnet for this kick-ass link.

How much tire and wheel can I stuff under my B13, B14, B15?

The Official Wide Tire (205+) Thread:
The official wide tire (205+) thread - SR20 Forum
The biggest tire you can run on a FWD vehicle thread:
Whats the biggest tire you run on your FWD car? - SR20 Forum
Toolapcfan wants a 15X8 wheel thread:
15x8 on a B13, what offset? Spacers? - SR20 Forum
Zerogravity wants to stuff a 15X8 wheel under his car also:
Test FIt:15x8 with +20 & +40 offset - SR20 Forum
Coach wants to stuff Slipstreams under his ride. Also, good information and discussion on offset.
Anyone look at the 7.5" WIDE Slipstream - SR20 Forum
JKho provided this link, to compare your current wheels to the wheels you are contemplating to see what will fit:
http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/info_specs.jsp
Here's Montys ride:
Originally Posted by McCoy
Here is what the 225/45/15 Hoosiers look like on my sentra with the 30mm offset and 8mm spacers used to clear the struts in the rear. No fender massaging has been done yet to my car, I just run the car high enough to keep the fenders off the tires.



Which tires are SR20-Forum Members running on their street or track cars, and what is their opinion on the tires?

From Cliff, this thread covers all the Forum Member reviews of tires in great detail.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/29119-definitive-tire-thread.html


What to buy if you want more tire/wheel and do not want to roll your fenders:

Overkill Engineering Motorsports - Makes rear offset pillowball mounts for B13's to run wider tires. OverkillEngineeringMotorsports.com

Did you miss that entire section as well as the section on bumpstops?

You skimmed the Cliffs Notes version of my thread down at Barnes and Nobles?

You require more than eight (8) threads linked, on the exact subject of your last question?!?

Originally Posted by commandercool
i read the suspension thread

You are either:

1) Lying.

OR

2) Your reading comprehension sucks. Further, if your reading comprehension sucks that bad, read the damn thing again.

This entire thread you created is a complete and total waste of time.

We are spoon feeding you answers, and posting pictures, and leading you by the hand...through the gawd-damned information in the Suspension Thread.

Every single question you have asked in this ridiculous thread of yours, and every single answer to those ridiculous questions, is IN FACT answered in the Suspension Thread.

This is utter nonsense. There is no lack of information. There is only your lack of reading or reading comprehension sir.

YOU need to go READ THE SUSPENSION THREAD. Again.

Shawn B
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top