Thread: Some Suspension Talk And Help.

I didn't say the difference between Koni inserts was ~50% (that's a bit much). It is a noticeable gap on both the dyno and the car though, and it is worse than other OTS dampers out there.

Hotbits will shorten the dampers if you select the external canister option and ask them. You do have to ask them to do it though, and specify the exact amount that you want to have both the shaft and body shortened.

Off-the-shelf valving for the Tein's twin tubes are pretty obviously comfort-oriented (they have that progressive-digressive knee at lower speeds). If I was only doing a few track events a year though, I'd choose that and compromise some response for day to day comfort. That and if down the line you felt like you need something more capable on the track, you can easily get stiffer springs and have them revalved pretty much any way you want (I've yet to have them say no to any of my strange requests).

EDIT:

I'd also like to add that I think pretty much all of the off the shelf street dampers out there are too soft for serious track use. Setting the Yellows / SS / Flex to full stiff will get you by, but if I'm going to do that I'd rather get them revalved beforehand or buy something else, whichever my wallet can handle at the time.

After reading the entire suspension thread and this entire thread I am still in the same place Miko was at the beginning of this...

We have a definite answer as far as bushings, sway bars and strut bars. But when it comes to struts/springs/coilovers/top-mounts there is a lot of "preference".

I have not and probably will not track a car for anything other than drag racing. However I highly enjoy a nice stiff riding vehicle (think new Lamborghini Gallardo or Ford GT) where I can feel everything on the road I am driving on.

My budget is anywhere between $500 and $1000 but could be a bit higher given that it is "the best".

I have used lowering spring/AGX/Koni bumpstops combo before and loved it, but during some aggressive driving, I did find that it tended to either bottom out or come close to it once in a blue moon; that's exactly what I want to avoid.

If we could get a link to where these items could be purchased or a phone number/email address that would be GREAT!

I know that there are 2 builders of custom set-ups, but I am kinda weary of PMing and wasting their time if the setup is out of my reach ($1200+).

Thanks,

JCC

I wouldn't think of it that way. We only have "definite" answers for bushings and antiroll bars simply because we don't have that many options in those areas. If someone made hard rubber, delrin, and/or drop-in spherical bearing bushings for our cars, there would be be plenty of discussion on purpose and "preference" there as well. Same goes with antiroll bars.

If you're willing to do some hands-on work, I'd say build your own shortened Koni setup (and re-use your drop springs). If not, Tein BASICs are decent bang for the buck and are right in your budget.

EDIT: Wait, you have a b13, don't you? Scratch that last bit. They don't make BASICs for your car.

JC you cant go wrong with the Tein's man. In the P11 they were a blast.

Ok, excellent. I will look into the Tein BASICs as well as the CSK setup.

For a B13, from what I can read on the CSKs is to use B15 Fronts up front but also a lot of preference out back.....what do I use out back?

Also with the progress rear bar we should use 4 front B13 housings? I also saw something about using housings from other vehicles with a 2" OD?

What's the best way around it for a B13, keeping in mind the possibility of Road Magnet, Hypercos or at best GC coils on the ghettofied perch....although welding is not out of the questions I just hear a lot of "preference" on where the perch should be welded when to me I would think it is more of a science.

Sorry for all the questions guys, hopefully they help clear other people's minds.

JCC

Hehehehe....

http://www.sr20-forum.com/showpost.php?p=24089&postcount=7

Got an entire section on that "discussion", primarily between Mike K and Steve (98sr20ve), along with a couple other suspension-savvy guys.

You cannot buy new Nissan OEM bushings, unless you buy the "hard part" that the bushing was in originally. You want new OEM LCA bushings? You have to buy new OEM lower control arms. The good news is Nissan includes the new bushings for free, already installed.



You can use *some* of the Major Manufacturers Conventional Springs with CSK's. Others will still lower the car too far, with not enough spring rate for the drop.

I address this issue in The Suspension Thread under "Other Springs". Giving recommendations on which springs mated with CSK's should work well for DD.

Thanks Kev!

Well, I can't seem to find Tein BASICs for a good price, but I did find Progress coilovers for a great price, I think I am going to jump on those. Heard nothing but good things from all the threads including ShawnB's.

JCC

i have a csk setup and i love them. im sure if you got some gc coilovers in a stiffer spring rate with some koni 8611's like the ones veilside180sx has above shortened youll be just fine unless you found a sweet deal on some progress coilovers for the quick bolt on install.

Figure out what spring rates you want. Then select a "shock" that can handle it. The Konis are laid out like that in the suspension thread.

For Miko:
Sway bars - Progress, eventually you may want to ditch the front bar.
Strut bars - Anything that fits. Shig makes one for gc camber plates.
Suspension Bushings - ES, Whiteline for the castor bushing
Springs - Eibach ERS
Shocks - KONI!!!, just not the reds for a coilover setup.
Coilovers - Ground Control (your choice of spring rate)

My biggest advice for someone with a sentra...don't over lower it. Bad things happend, and not just to the bumpstops! Also the all important alignment can make a world of difference.

Make sure before you order the Progress that they have them in stock. There are quite a few of us at one time or another that waited over a year for them that were never produced.