Thread: Just a couple of questions about extended wheel studs and spacers.

^Ben how is that right? Seems to me that I would need 59.1mm so that the ID fits over the stock bore like a sleeve. I'm pretty decent with Math, what I'm I missing? You have any pics of this madness? I know how techincal you get, but what you are saying even goes against my chart above.

I need to find my receipt from the hub centric rings I bought. They fit perfect into the wheels (I had to lightly tap them in with a hammer) and they are a very very nice fit onto the hub.

The "stock bore" size is 59mm but that is the size of the hole in the stock wheel (a bore is a hole after all). The stock hub is 58.9mm. That's what you're missing I think. You want to make the ID the same diameter as the old stock wheel which was also 59mm.

Here is a link to the place where I bought my hub centric rings from.

Link!

Sorry to bump an old thread, but since my question relates directly to this thread, I thought I'd just ask here instead of starting a new one...

So I know we are not supposed to use spacers in the 8-15mm range, because it will fully overlap the lip of hub and we don't want the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheel studs. What if I had custom 10mm spacers made by Motorsport Tech (We manufacture the best Wheel Spacers money can buy | Motorsport Tech) that were both hub centric and wheel centric to my specific wheels? Would that be okay then?

Also, does anyone have any experience with Motorsport Tech? Also, I think they have the B14 hub diameter incorrectly listed at 66.1mm. I believe the B14 hub diameter is the same as the B13 (59.1mm). Is this right?

Thanks!

Davin, good to see you here. I have all of your answers.

First, the hub does not carry the weight of the vehicle. It is only there for ease of centering the wheel when mounting. A wheel can be mounted without resting on a hub and mount lug-centric instead, it just takes a little extra care when mounting the wheel and you'll be fine. All of the forces travel from the wheel to the rotor hat and hub via friction once the lugs are tight. No weight or forces are carried by that little hub extension. So if you don't want to deal with getting a proper hub extension you really don't have to.

That being said, you will have a very hard time getting a 10mm spacer to be hub-centric AND wheel-centric. This is because the factory hub extension is 10mm long. Are you willing to trim this hub down? If so, you could be okay. If not? You might be in trouble.

IMO if you insist I would cut down the stock hub extension to 8mm or so and (this is important) check to see if your wheels have a 45-degree chamfer taken out at the hub bore. This magical chamfer will give the machinist enough room to put enough support on a wheel-centric hub extension. See the chamfer on these Rouge spacers? That's what I'm talking about. If you have wheels with this recess (95% of them have this) then you can really be in business.

I wish I'd known all this when I made my 12mm spacers a long while back. I probably would have gone with 10mm with no hub extension or 15mm with a hub extension. Let me know if I need to explain more.

Hey Ben!
It's been a long time... Too long! We need to catch up!

I think I get it. So I would be fine with a 10mm hub centric spacer with no hub extension?

Yes, you would be fine. Don't let anyone else tell you otherwise. From someone who's agonized over the details of hub extensions for a long time, they are not absolutely necessary. I actually ran with no hub extension and a 12mm stack of washers as "wheel spacers" for 5 years before getting my wheel spacers made and never once encountered a single shimmy or shake or issue of any kind. When mounting the wheel you will want to tighten the lugs carefully so they don't "catch" and hold the wheel in the wrong position. Once you do it one or two times you'll get the hang of it. That's all there is to it. No big deal. Don't sweat it. Move on to bigger and better things.

The real science is that the friction between the surfaces carries all the cornering and bump loads. That hub extension is ONLY there to make mounting the wheels easier and make tightening the lugs ease enough any monkey with an air gun could do it.

Just make sure all surfaces are flat. Get that wire brush out.

It has been too long. Hopefully we'll catch up one of these days.

Sweet! Thanks for the info Ben. I was actually wondering about that, because the center bore of my wheels are 67.1mm and were not resting on the hub at all. I never had any problems or vibrations, even after doing a couple of track days, so I guess that's proof right there, as well.

I'm sorry, I glazed over that part of your post. If you have a gap like that you can certainly get wheel-centric spacers made in 10mm... If it is worth it to you for ease of mounting, go for it. Otherwise, you'll be fine.