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Thread: B13 MOOG Balljoints.

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Posts: 31-40 of 57
2008-01-14 00:26:50
#31
55 bux for an OEM control arm is awsome! The cheapest i have found online is like 153...


Hey GSRMx , maybe you can sell the control arms for a little bit more ( for your troubles ) and we can all have OEM control arms. I for one have my ball joint boots ripped and i really wanted OEM to replace those. Just because the fit is on point.
2008-01-14 00:32:03
#32
I installed a set into my LCA's a little while ago. My press pop'd the old OEM ones out and these in with no sweat
2008-01-14 01:15:34
#33
Originally Posted by Sentrixx
I want to see pics of how it doesn't fit. Because in the 8 years I have been working on my car this is the 1st time I have ever heard anything about a ball joint not fitting after another was removed.

How many people have had this issue? Was it a moog to moog install in all matter's? What side of the car did this happen to?

Details.


I have a cold and you want me to go outside and post pics? geesh OK, twist my arm why don't ya.
Anyhousers, yeah, I had a Autozone balljoint in one side, and the MOOG pressed into it fine. The control arm that had the MOOG (the older one) in it just fell in and out. There was no tension to hold it. It had to be tackwelded.
2008-01-14 02:00:12
#34



It was the drivers side.
2008-01-14 03:04:49
#35
I agree with sentrix rent the tool man it makes the job real easy and u get your money back. I dont like the tack welding idea at all
2008-01-14 08:40:27
#36
I just gave mine a few good whaps with the hammer and it poped out like a charm.
2008-01-14 14:01:48
#37
Originally Posted by Black
I agree with sentrix rent the tool man it makes the job real easy and u get your money back. I dont like the tack welding idea at all


I would love to know why tac welding is a bad idea? Next time I need a balljoint I am going to have to buy a whole new control arm. If your new balljoint was not sitting in the control arm and just sliding in and out the hole w/o tension, what would be the next alternative? The circlip is on the top. As far as MOOG balljoints are concerned, I can tell you 1st hand that you cannot use the AUTOZONE kit they give you and press them in. There is no disc in their rental big enough to go around the base of the balljoint.
2008-01-14 14:03:47
#38
Originally Posted by SENTRASER
I just gave mine a few good whaps with the hammer and it poped out like a charm.


Thats the easy part. What we are trying to say is that once you use a MOOG no other balljoint will ever seat in a control arm again. Not even a MOOG. They just stretch out the hole.
2008-01-14 16:54:54
#39
Well, it sounds like this is simple; "if you use a Moog ever, keep using a Moog, or you'll have a fit-ment issue."

But I really don't think it's that simple.

I cannot see how swapping out energy suspension control arm bushings, is ever going to be easier than just swapping a joint. The shape of the arm is an absolute bitch to grip while installing Reds or Prothanes.
I highly recommend sticking with Nissan parts and swapping only the joint, unless you like to sweat like a fat baby pooping, removing and then re-installing bushings. Unless the following applies...

Maybe, just maybe, Moog over-sized the replacements so:

1) If the housing has wallowed out from driving way too long with bad joints, it offers a tighter fit via the replacement??? (This sounds proper from an engineering stand point, but it also means you are forced to stretch the hole to install the replacement part. I'm not sure this is necessary, if you are getting to them before they are drop outs or fall outs). You may be stretching the holes out for nothing, just to have a grease fitting.

2) Re-installing a stocker is really only an option, when your a responsible mechanic and swap them BEFORE they just fall out with a few smacks of a hammer. (Ball Joints are supposed to fit very tight or they are dangerous and allow the tires to dig way too hard during tight cornering, because of the sloppy fit). If you intend on handling well while cornering as hard and fast as you drive, during race conditions, or while doubling your horse power, you may want the best suspension you can afford, to avoid slap back under stress.

In my opinion, if the joints just popped out easy, with a few smacks of the hammer, you should probably be considering why this is happening. (Or just have another beer and forget quality altogether).

The arms are supposed to be a stretched fit to the ball joint, so they send all torque to the arm and not just wallow out in the malleable steel, our control arms are made from. There is a point when the arms are shot.

If you have gone through a set of stockers and are on your second set of Moogs, it may be time to start with new arms, just to be safe, so the steel doesn't keep stretching and cause more problems. Theoretically, the circle keeps stretching, the entire time you own the car and at some point; the arm should be replaced.

Welding takes what little temper there was from the factory and creates weakness in the steel, unless you are a master at re-treating metals and have an oil dip tank handy. I cannot see anyone doing this type or work when a new arm is only $55.00, unless you are faced with ES bushing replacement, as stated above.

Think about it like this:
Moog would not oversize their joints, even a little bit; unless their liability and responsibility of doing so was warranted.

Let's face it, the steel in our cars is not 6160 heat treated, forged or cast iron. The C/A's are soft and bend, distort and break easily, compared to many other manufacturers, but they are light weight and cheaper to maintain, as a direct result. $55.00 is cheap, in any language for a front end part.

The NXS comparable part is $1200.00 each!!!!!! Forged Aluminum, 6160 heat treated.

There's a reason the good tools are expensive for this repair,as well.
I cannot tell you how many times the tools at AZ have been broken and missing parts when I borrowed them. The threads on these rental tools are trash and will let you down eventually, unless you are the lucky guy to get the tool the first time out. Ever seen a bottle of cool tool thread saver in the kit??? No.

It's all about the quality of the steel, in the parts and the tools that makes the job either correct or just "EASY".

I choose quality, whenever possible. Tools and parts. You get what you pay for, but you still have to know when something is out of spec, or you can cause more damage to your suspension. Wobbly brand new joints, in stretched out arms, welded; is a last resort if I am too broke to make it happen right.

Probably best reserved for off-road use or to get you by for a while until you can afford to replace the parts properly. There are no real short cuts, just cheap ways to get by, but they are not recommended and can cost you more money in tires and alignment problems, down the road. Short cuts usually cost money some where down the line.:o
2008-01-14 18:45:23
#40
See, that was my dillema. I have ES bushing in my control arms now. To buy new cnntrol arms to press out the new bushings to press in new bushings is not practical. The bj is flush and the circlip is in place. It is bolted to the knuckle and secure. As stated, this was a last minute decision that is now a permanent one.
Your #1 point is probally the rational one.
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