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Thread: cheap fix for camber on my nx?

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Posts: 1-10 of 26
2008-12-08 06:52:00
#1
cheap fix for camber on my nx?
ok...so i have set of eibach pro kits on my nx.....along with the kyb gr2's. ill i wanted was a lower ride, but as close to stock when it came to handling the crappy roads here in richmond. ANYWAYS, i have some negative camber id like to resolve, but dont want to purchase camber plates. i thought i could enlarge the upper hole for where the lower section of the strut bolts with 2 17mm bolts to the hub assembley. i think this would work, giving me the ability to pivot the hub assembley outwards at the top more, reducing my negative camber. does this make sense? the only thing im worried about is changing toe-in. anyone care to comment on this? its only the upper hole im reffering too. from looking at it, THINK it would work just fine. just wondered. trying to save money is the onley reasoning here, if ti can be done for free, then why not do it.
2008-12-09 14:45:40
#2
You can do this. I believe that you will want to use a half inch bit. Just run it through the hole. Then, push or pull on the strut body for more or less camber as you tighten the 2 bolts. I know, you need three hands to do this right, but it's possible for one person to do it.

BUT how much camber do you have, and how much do you want? Up to 1.5* negative should be OK for street driving. Do you have more than this? Something else might be wrong.

Finally, this will affect your toe. And you should get it set to make sure you are OK. I'd shoot for zero toe in the front.
2008-12-09 18:22:10
#3
Originally Posted by crznx2000
ok...so i have set of eibach pro kits on my nx.....along with the kyb gr2's. ill i wanted was a lower ride, but as close to stock when it came to handling the crappy roads here in richmond.

You do realize that that particular combination of struts and springs is not anywhere "close to stock when it came to handling crappy roads"? Nor are those struts going to survive very long with the Eibachs and cratered out road surfaces. You will prematurely blow the GR2's.

However, if you upgraded ($) those KYB GR2's to CSK's, you would indeed have a near stock-like ride, damn near full OEM suspension travel, and the same ride height you currently enjoy.
2008-12-09 19:17:00
#4
Originally Posted by crznx2000
ok...so i have set of eibach pro kits on my nx.....along with the kyb gr2's. ill i wanted was a lower ride, but as close to stock when it came to handling the crappy roads here in richmond. ANYWAYS, i have some negative camber id like to resolve, but dont want to purchase camber plates. i thought i could enlarge the upper hole for where the lower section of the strut bolts with 2 17mm bolts to the hub assembley. i think this would work, giving me the ability to pivot the hub assembley outwards at the top more, reducing my negative camber. does this make sense? the only thing im worried about is changing toe-in. anyone care to comment on this? its only the upper hole im reffering too. from looking at it, THINK it would work just fine. just wondered. trying to save money is the onley reasoning here, if ti can be done for free, then why not do it.



If you want to adjust your camber that is exactly what you should do. Drill out one of the holes on your strut (NOT YOUR KNUCKLE) by about 1/16" or 1/8" larger and that give you a couple of degrees of camber adjustment. As for toe-in I would highly recommend getting some toe-in plates. Read or look at some info about doing your own alignment (there are tons of videos out there on youtube that tell you how) and it will take you about 2 times to perfect your technique. I do all my own alignments and have saved a ton of money now! Here are the toe-in plates I got and they work fine for me:
Longacre Racing Online -- Online Catalog

If you got any more questions shoot me a PM.
2008-12-09 19:19:12
#5
I doubt that will work for the fact that if you hit a bump hard enough, the force from the weight of the car will just pivot it back to where it was before. im no expert, but i can tell that it would not work, unless the hole was filled on the back side to prevent it from sliding back. you may be able to torque it down, but im sure the torque needed will snap the bolt. you may want to check all the bolts and bushings if you have not yet to make sure everything is good and torqued to spec.. i had the same problem and it turned out my bushings were dry rotted to hell and it was all effed up and caused some of my suspension bolts to come loose from the rattling.

my vote.. listen to the man above.....
2008-12-10 12:55:19
#6
Originally Posted by azHkilrNX2K
I doubt that will work for the fact that if you hit a bump hard enough, the force from the weight of the car will just pivot it back to where it was before......


Sorry, but I do not agree with the above. I have successfully used slightly enlarged holes on the bottom of the strut mount to adjust camber. Properly torqued bolts will not break and will not slip. I have done this on 2 B13s -- one that I drive on the street and one on the track. I have never had any issues, and no slippage. Many others on this forum have had the same experience as me.
2008-12-10 15:46:37
#7
Originally Posted by billc
Sorry, but I do not agree with the above. I have successfully used slightly enlarged holes on the bottom of the strut mount to adjust camber. Properly torqued bolts will not break and will not slip. I have done this on 2 B13s -- one that I drive on the street and one on the track. I have never had any issues, and no slippage. Many others on this forum have had the same experience as me.


Agreed. The fact that Steve F and Mike K both recommend this method is all the proof I need.
2008-12-10 16:34:18
#8
what about camber bolts?
2008-12-10 16:52:36
#9
My alignment shop locally has done 3 of my nxs over the years by drilling the hub holes slightly to adjust.
The bolts hold fine without breaking.They have not moved at all and the alignment on my current nx is perfect after 50,000 miles.
2008-12-10 17:03:58
#10
Originally Posted by stephenjk13
what about camber bolts?


I have those on my B14 and seem to work fine.
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