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Thread: bumpsteer kit

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Posts: 81-90 of 166
2010-07-26 00:57:53
#81
Depending on your vehicle height will depend how much bump steer you have, and now much the angle of the tie rod needs to be corrected. This mod, in conjunction with the tubular control arms when properly setup could basically eliminate bump steer no matter how low the car is.

To PROPERLY set it up, a bumpsteer gauge is a necessity, or some kind of DIY arrangement to measure and indicate the toe change. This also requires you to remove the spring from you shock absorber so the suspension can be compressed from droop to full bump to observe the toe change without lifting the car up off the stands.

Fine for a street car that is lowered where you're wanting to increase the handling performance, fine for a full race car looking for that extra 1/10th of a secon, but setup / measurement is the most important part of it to know that you dont fit the kit and end up making it worse (which i don't think is really likely, but i haven't tested so i can't say for sure!). Thats why different sized spacers are provided. As per the video a few pages back, it shows the difference when difference sized spacers were fitted (not to a sentra, but the idea is the same).

The only thing i would recommend trying to get is a boot to go over the joint because dust and road grime can get into it and wear it out faster. I know they're available, but not sure where to get one.
2010-07-26 17:38:34
#82
Originally Posted by Shawn


4) Primarily Track Car with access to a "bumpsteer gauge"? YES.

Shawn B




ideally you should use a measuring device of some kind to measure bumpsteer and the related correction this kit can provide. some buyers have installed the kits without measuring and have had good to very poor results.

i suggest you use these on track only cars, as with any performance upgrade a higher degree of maintenence and inspection is required. keep in mind the rod ends are not 100,000mi factory parts, and i wouldn't expect them to last more than 5,000-10,000 mi.

please see the first post as i have added a warning/disclaimer

thanks
-chuck
2010-07-26 17:58:10
#83
Originally Posted by Cozzm0_AU

The only thing i would recommend trying to get is a boot to go over the joint because dust and road grime can get into it and wear it out faster. I know they're available, but not sure where to get one.


from summit
Seals it WS3750 - Seals-it Rod End Seals - Overview - SummitRacing.com

or i can get them from my supplier at $10 a set of 4

thanks
-chuck
2010-07-26 19:16:54
#84
5-10k miles for the rod ends surprises me a bit chuck ? Are there different ones that could last longer? or is that the going rate for this kind of joint to last?
2010-07-26 19:55:15
#85
i really don't know. i tend to be pretty pessemistic. i am sure under ideal conditions with proper inspection and maintenence they could last a long time. remember these should be considered track use only, and i would expect hard track use would wear them faster.

in a typical, get in it and go, kinda car, where i doubt anyone is going to inspect, clean and lube on a regular basis......

i do use the teflon lined units which should be the longest lasting, but your results may vary.

thanks
-chuck
2010-07-27 01:31:46
#86
Originally Posted by octotat
i really don't know. i tend to be pretty pessemistic. i am sure under ideal conditions with proper inspection and maintenence they could last a long time. remember these should be considered track use only, and i would expect hard track use would wear them faster.

in a typical, get in it and go, kinda car, where i doubt anyone is going to inspect, clean and lube on a regular basis......

i do use the teflon lined units which should be the longest lasting, but your results may vary.

thanks
-chuck


I am going to send the 10 dollars and get the boots from you. I have a needle fitting for my grease gun which I use to lube anything that needs lube but lacks a zerk fitting. Do you think that would work well to lube the ends? I will send Paypal tomorrow night.
2010-07-27 02:50:12
#87
Originally Posted by octotat
ideally you should use a measuring device of some kind to measure bumpsteer and the related correction this kit can provide. some buyers have installed the kits without measuring and have had good to very poor results.

i suggest you use these on track only cars, as with any performance upgrade a higher degree of maintenance and inspection is required. keep in mind the rod ends are not 100,000mi factory parts, and i wouldn't expect them to last more than 5,000-10,000 mi.

please see the first post as i have added a warning/disclaimer

thanks
-chuck

Thank you sir.

It is cool as hell that you make these, ready to go, for the serious track guys.

However, I'm gonna bow out on buying these, as they are not intended for me and my daily driver.

Still lovin' my BIB 3-pt RSTB.
2010-07-27 08:02:42
#88
Originally Posted by octotat
from summit
Seals it WS3750 - Seals-it Rod End Seals - Overview - SummitRacing.com

or i can get them from my supplier at $10 a set of 4

thanks
-chuck


If you could get a boot like this (instead of just a seal) :

Seals-It

I'd pay the bit extra to have them for the kits i've ordered (just saves the extra shipping for me to order from another place internationally).

Please let me know (via PM if required).
2010-07-27 22:40:00
#89
Originally Posted by Cozzm0_AU
If you could get a boot like this (instead of just a seal) :

Seals-It

I'd pay the bit extra to have them for the kits i've ordered (just saves the extra shipping for me to order from another place internationally).

Please let me know (via PM if required).


Pm me with a price on a set similar to what he is describing when you get a chance. I have Paypal ready.
2010-07-28 21:17:53
#90
This bump steer kit would be for an aggressive setup street/track car or a dedicated track car. My car doubles as a street car and track car, but I am willing to take on the extra work and will replace the rod ends every year or two with new ones. They are not terribly expensive by themselves, but having rod ends for the tie rods, ball joints, end links, and camber/caster plates will get expensive.

Me I just can't stand having bad bump steer especially under braking while on an uneven surface. You would be surprised how nice a car rides when these annoying little problems are taken care of. You won't get better handling per say, however the steering will feel more confident and the car more stable. But do use a bump steer gauge and do it right or there will be hell to pay.

First step to getting really good bump adjustment is to center the steering rack. If you have ever had the rack replaced make sure its dead center and that both inner tie rods are equal. If you count the exposed threads where the inner tie rod connects to the outer tie rod and there is a huge difference between the two sides you need to center the rack. I counted 24 exposed threads on the left inner and 8 exposed threads on the right inner = no good.

The steering on my car is 3 turns lock to lock, with the wheels pointing straight I had 1.6 turns to right lock and 1.4 turns to left lock. Years ago I replaced my steering rack and didn't realized how bad it was.

Uneven steering makes matters worse as you will now have two different bump steer arcs for each side, which adds to the weirdness.

So this week I am re-centering the rack first before I install the bump steer kit.

Oh and those rubber boots that cover the rod end are very effective. I know a guy who ran one side with the cover and one side without the cover, the difference after a winter of driving was huge.
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