Thread: B13 Rally Car Build

that would be nice, but no, I'm only going to be stitch welding around the strut towers for now.

I don't know what you're doing for seat mounting but here's my setup:

passenger compartment seat mounts

I was hoping to flip the car over and stitch weld the underside but I think I'm gonna stick with just the top side of the passenger compartment interior for now. It's honestly a little overkill anyway... these aren't WRC level cars

The seat mounts should add a bunch of rigidity to that part of the chassis anyway. I tore out the spot welded shaped piece that the stock seats mount to, it's fairly rigid but was going to be in the way for the tube mounts.

Almost exactly what I'm doing.

There is actually part of the rally car in this picture. For those of you not in the midwest, this is what it looks like here in MN right now. The snow has actually gone down quite a bit, some just due to compaction and evaporation, but we also had a day of rain that really knocked down the height of the banks too.




Anyhow, in front of the Versa and Alti, next to the engine hoist, there is, buried under a snowbank, most of the unibody from the front clip of my old rallycross car, which will get the first several inches grafted on to the rally car to repair the crash damage (from before I got it).

Not much progress lately, but here are some pics to keep people happy.

This is the shell I'm buliding on.


Among the stuff sitting in the shell is the remaining Hotbits inverted rally coilovers.


Rally-America requires fire suppression, either a system or handhelds. I've got two of these, which meets the requirements.


6-point FIA certified cam-lock belts.


Color scheme is going to be based off the WRC RNN14 cars run by NME (Nissan Motorsports Europe). The car was hopelessly uncompetitive for a number of reasons, but the drivers (Stig Blovquist and Marcus Grundholm) both had success in other vehicles (both have been world champions). I like the nod to Nissan's rally history, and I just happen to like the scheme in itself.


There are more pics in the album at: Picasa Web Albums - Mark Holden - Drop Box but I'm too tired to link up more of them and post descriptions right now.

Oh, I'll throw in one more. This is of my RallyCross car. This wasn't the most recent evolution of the car, but something during the middle of the years I was running it. But it's a good photo (of an ugly car).

Holy crap. I just converted a pair of Hella Rallye 4000 pencil beam lights (9" lamps, tight long-range focus spotlights) from 100w Halogen to 55W HID. I've got spots in my eyes from looking at the light projected on the wall. Seriously, worse than getting flashed by a MIG welder. The beam pattern is perfect too.

They'll do.

Pulled of a damaged steering rack boot on the passenger side, to find out that the replacement I have is too small.

Looking forward to the completion! What events do you think you're looking at? Any in 2011?

Hopefully Rally Minnesota in May, Ojibwe Forests in August and Lake Superior in October.

The Nemadji Trails 1-day events in June and July are possibilities, assuming I don't break anything at Rally Minnesota.

Ebay Meagan Racing header. Wrapped with DEI Titanium wrap. Mostly to keep from frying the alternator. I'm not 100% happy witht he wrap job, but it looks pretty good from this angle.



Hella FF1000 Xenon driving beam lamps. These are stock, German-made HID lamps, so the quality is great. We ran these with a pair of FF1000 Halogen pencil beams a couple years ago in 00 at LSPR (I was navigating), and they worked very well. I am combining them with Hella Rallye 4000 pencil beams converted to 55W HID, however, which should give me a phenomenal amount of light. I really want to put as much light out there as I can, because I know one of my weaknesses is night racing. I slow down, a lot. And around here, we end up doing a lot of night stages (Typically MN events and LSPR finish up around 12:30am most days). Anything I can do to help myself NOT slow down is good.



Koyo dual-row racing radiator. Bought off a forum member. Needs a bit of work to straighten some of the fins on the back side, and the fan mountings need to be revisited. I was going to use an all-metal (copper/brass) radiator that came with the car, but it needs to be flattened (was twisted in the front end that the car was in), and this is a much better option that I couldn't pass up for the price.