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Thread: Help me identify this knock or slap

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Posts: 11-20 of 23
2014-08-03 18:20:01
#11
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Pull the plugs one at a time and see if it affects the sound. If it can be isolated to one cylinder, the it is likely a rod bearing issue. To me it sounds like valve train related. Like someone posted before, try replacing the tensioner.


Thanks for the tip, this proved what we thought. Definitely the first cylinder, spun bearing. I guess we'll run on 3 cylinders.
2014-08-03 18:49:50
#12
Originally Posted by eggman
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Put the DE you got from me in . it runs better unless damaged in transport


Originally Posted by metro_se-r
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Put the DE you got from me in . it runs better unless damaged in transport


Unfortunately that is that motor.




2014-08-03 22:23:24
#13
Originally Posted by metro_se-r
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Pull the plugs one at a time and see if it affects the sound. If it can be isolated to one cylinder, the it is likely a rod bearing issue. To me it sounds like valve train related. Like someone posted before, try replacing the tensioner.


Thanks for the tip, this proved what we thought. Definitely the first cylinder, spun bearing. I guess we'll run on 3 cylinders.


Bummer man. Well, I hope it lasts through the race.
2014-08-04 03:30:23
#14
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Originally Posted by metro_se-r
Originally Posted by ebinkerd
Pull the plugs one at a time and see if it affects the sound. If it can be isolated to one cylinder, the it is likely a rod bearing issue. To me it sounds like valve train related. Like someone posted before, try replacing the tensioner.


Thanks for the tip, this proved what we thought. Definitely the first cylinder, spun bearing. I guess we'll run on 3 cylinders.


Bummer man. Well, I hope it lasts through the race.


There's only one way to find out... (it won't last)
2014-08-04 17:01:30
#15
Originally Posted by TheSam
Swap out the chain tensioner see if that helps


Get a new one from Nissan, they were updated at some point.

Originally Posted by Dala
You could remove the unnecessary upper chain guide, but it sounds like it could be something worse than that..



And this, your issue will go away.

Also check your oil level just for piece of mind.
2014-08-04 17:34:49
#16
could also be a broken chain guide
2014-08-11 07:32:23
#17
My hearing must be going bad because that sounded like a exhaust leak lol.
2014-08-12 00:18:36
#18
Been waiting for a week for someone to post this. ^^^ @BlueRB240

From what I can hear, the sound goes away during certain ranges and load conditions of the engine. Sounds just like a leak at the cylinder head on exhaust side, at the exhaust manifold.
2014-08-12 10:45:25
#19
Originally Posted by BlueRB240
My hearing must be going bad because that sounded like a exhaust leak lol.



Holy.... I was thinking the exact same thing, but I thought someone would say I'm a dope (again) - the reason I didn't know that was the DE that OP got from me is because the valve cover is different. That motor ran perfect for the whole 60 miles I drove it, so I was suprised to hear it was giving issues.
2014-08-12 17:55:57
#20
Originally Posted by Kyle
Been waiting for a week for someone to post this. ^^^ @BlueRB240

From what I can hear, the sound goes away during certain ranges and load conditions of the engine. Sounds just like a leak at the cylinder head on exhaust side, at the exhaust manifold.


It's actually both. There is definitely an exhaust leak at the header, and there is definitely a knock. And when you give it throttle and then let go, there is a definite 'thud' as it comes back to idle speed. Removing the spark plug wire from the first cylinder eliminates the knock and thud.
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