Thread: Opinions on rear swaybar for the b14 ?

So, i got new shocks ( GR2's ) on the 200sx and it handles fairly good. But my last car was a BMW and i really miss the handling feel of that car.

The B14 seems to have a far less complex rear suspension. I'm beginning to wonder if this will be a bottleneck to handling greatness.

I'm looking at a progress rear sway bar:

95-99 Nissan Sentra Rear anti-roll bar Progress Technology: Anti-roll bars, sport springs, coil-overs, camber kits and more since 1995!

Any opinions on these? i'm really intrigued. I'm starting to wonder if this is a missing link.. and could compensate for the subpar rear suspension action of the B14.

All these threads could have been answered by looking in the giant suspension thread Shawn B made.

B14's understeer badly. The only way to correct this without bending the beam back to zero degrees is by stiffening the hell out of the rear.

Leave the front stock and get a rear Progress Sway bar. Get a rear strut brace bar. Since you have GR2's and not AGX's you cannot adjust the shock rebound and compression so focus on connecting the entire rear together with the sway bar and strut tower bars.

I read the thread. He didn't say anything about b14 swaybars And the rear swaybar designs for this car look a little hackish so i thought i'd ask.

Hm, so stiffening the rear will make up for the toe adjustment ( to some degree ), huh? That's good to hear. Yeah, this car seems to understeer more than my Hondas..

Anyone have experiences with this swaybar?

Stiffening the rear with a sway bar won't make up for how much the toe is in. It will simply stop the entire chassis and suspension from flexing, leading to less understeer.

You stiffen the opposite end of what end is slipping. Since our FWD B14's understeer like a bitch, we gotta stiffen the rear to try to negate the understeer effect and reinforce the entire chassis and rear suspension. (making is stiffer!)

Rear progress sway bar is the way to go!
Best sway bar for b14!

hey Nep...you're in the Portland area? i'd suggest a putt to SoCal to get the beam bent. here's why...
1. a cool road ride with some side trips thrown in (coast)
2. for the ~$200, or so, Darrin charges, you'll end up with a better handling b14 than any sway bar can attempt to fix.
3. less weight because you won't be adding unneeded additional unsprung weight (steel) to your suspension.
4. no spending $$ on a sway bar you don't need.
5. the b14 chassis is not the flexi-flyer that the b13 is. so you can avoid the $$ and weight of the rear strut tower bar also.
6. the grin on your face the 1st time you take a familiar corner (or set of corners) at near its previous potential and feeling the car can do MUCH more...confidently! PRICELESS!!
do it. you won't be sorry.

p.s. getting there/back is easy with a GPS.

Someone needs to bring and KEEP beam bending over here on the east coast....

Teal.. good point. But it is gonna cost me about $200 in gas to get there. Then i have to pay for hotels. It just really adds up.

I wish i could just ship my beam out there. We need to find someone who will do mail order beam bending! that is.. if it detaches from the car without epic struggle.. O_O

So ultimately it would cost me ~$500 to drive down there and have that done. And 3 days of my time. I'm just thinking.. can't i put $500 into the suspension and have similar results?

f***ing Nissan for cursing us with this :P..

I'm glad we don't need strut tower bars..

Adding sway bars and strut bars wil never be close to what a properly bent rear beam would give you. A B14 with a bent beam will out handle a B13 with stock setups on both cars. That rear just needs to trail, nothing else, it handles no power and does not turn. This idea is the reason Mike Kojima used the B14 for his Dog I and Dog II cars. The rear allows no adjustment because nothing needs adjusted. Everything is static. Once the rear is bent, B14's handle extremely well and predictable. He uses a B15 now for racing and that still has the beam back there.

It truly is a paradox on what to do.

x2 on the bent beam. While you are waiting, the Progress bar set at full stiff will give you the best help. Use the stock front bar with ES bushings and end links for crisper response.